Keep looking on craigslist or in local scrapyards for B210's. It took me two years, but I found a guy selling a trashed B210 for $1800. I drove it home and pulled out the engine and transmission, and sold the rest to a scrapyard for $200. That's not cheap, but for my situation it worked really well. (I needed the whole emissions and carburetion system intact.)
My plan had been to swap my four-speed into the B210 but it was in such bad shape I didn't feel right selling it as a driving car.

Okay, that's really cool too. What ITB is that? It looks like all it needed was holes redrilled to make it fit onto a stock intake manifold? That would make my life a lot easier.

So how do people manage fuel flow through a single injector? Make it four times as large, or have it operate at four times the duty cycle?

That is sweet. What ITB's are those?
I'm partly interested in a plenum because I may boost the engine at some point, at which point I know volume doesn't matter so much because the pressure makes up for it. But that's a huge project so getting it driving with FI first seems like a good idea.

I'm thinking about moving to fuel injection, after reading the datsun1200 entry on how comparatively easy it is. Since I don't have an EFI manifold I'd have to build one, which is okay, but I'm wondering: for a non-racing daily driver, any guesses as to the plenum interior volume? I've read a lot of estimates and calculations, but I suspect "whatever Datsun did" is probably the right answer.
Thoughts?

And he wants less than $1000 for it.
I think my wife will kill me if I bring home another Datsun, even if it's just to pull the drivetrain and haul the rest off to the salvage yard.

Maybe I can hide the engine behind my workshop. That'll totally succeed, right?

Temptation is an awful thing.

Out of curiosity, how would you divide up a pan into two pieces? I have a BMW engine that's two-piece but that was only because one is a skirt to handle the BMW engine being installed at an angle, and the other is the actual pan. My mental image of an A-series dry sump is basically a V bottom plate with just enough depth for the counterweights, and a small valley down the center where the sump collection tubes attach.

Heavy duty sump guard might work. There's another frame rail that I'm hoping I can set the motor on, that'd act to guard the flywheel.
That scavenge pump is a _nice_ setup.

I'd like to put a dry sump on my A14, mostly so I could lower it several centimeters. (It's not in a Datsun.) I can do it by moving the engine back (which I'm going to do at some point, because that also helps the car's handling) but I already have a modified mid-sump B210 pan on it, and the bottom of the pan is at the same height as a frame cross-member, so dropping it more means the pan takes the damage if there's a debris encounter. Hence, I'd like to put a flat pan on it.
What I'm thinking about is not using a traditional multi-stage mechanical oil pump, but instead using several electric fuel pumps as scavenge pumps, because I can mount them anywhere, and then using a single pump (either external mechanical, or possibly by plumbing the sump the scavenge pumps feed into through a hole in the side of the oil pan into the pickup for the stock oil pump) to do the job the stock oil pump does now.
Thoughts on whether this is dumb or smart or interesting or viable?

I swapped my alt to the other side and switched for a newer alt for wiring issues and ended up cutting and rewelding mine into a horrible mess. Nowe I wish I had left it stock and just fabricated one from scratch.

I'll grab the carb. For me the rest is less useful (I have a 210 drivetrain in an old british sportscar) but if they're easy I'll grab 'em to keep them out of the crusher.
Thanks for the suggestions.