I just went and read the tech wiki about the GA series. Interesting. Now I want one.

A GA block bolts to an A-series transmission, rather than the L-series version of the 60/63?
Also, a GA could in theory be bolted into an A-series block? Presumably you'd have to use an extension of the existing A-series cam to run a timing belt up to the GA cams?

Quote:

I'm not sure that quoted cargo area includes the driver space, either: you would not reasonably expect to use the car without a driver. So, it may have more internal volume than the cargo space spec would indicate.

Cans are small enough I bet you could pack them in ferociously tightly, especially since you could moosh the foam on seats with sufficently tightly packed cans. I'll bet you'd be very close to 78% packing efficiency based purely on volume considerations.
Too bad that 210 wagon I bought for the engine/trans went off to the junkyard.

I will make a very rough guess of 1700.
Volume of a pop can is 355 cc's, the B210 claimed to have 32 cubic feet of cargo space, and cans pack with about 75% space efficiency.

Cool, thanks. I'll give it a shot. It probably got overtightened at some point.

I took the intake/exhaust pair off the spare engine, preparatory to tearing it apart and replacing at least the rings. In doing so, when I removed the rearmost nut for the intake upper stud, the part of the intake manifold through which the stud passes fell off, along with a fairly good-sized chunk of the runner. I've no idea how long it's been broken.

Has anyone ever welded one of these? I'm a pretty good TIG welder and have a mill so I could reface it afterwards and get it flat, but I don't know if the aluminum is a particularly poor alloy for welding.

I'm not yet sure how good an idea this is but my engine mounts are cushioned by metal springs rather than rubber, specifically a stack of Belleville washers.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer
They're stainless steel. I have four of them between the frame and the engine mount, then another four above the mount, with a bolt that goes through the whole works and is significantly smaller than the hole in the engine mount so it can move freely.

Thus far it's been working okay. The body doesn't jerk around from somewhat hard launches, and the washers certainly aren't going to fall apart any time soon.

This did require fabricating custom engine mounts, but I had to do that anyway.

btw here's the part numbers for the rear engine seal: http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawi ... php?title=Crankshaft_Seal
There are a bunch of scanned pdf's for the datsun 1200 and datsun b210 online that'll talk you through the rear seal replacement, although it may just be the rear seal on the pan that's shot. Likewise they also talk you through the significantly more intimidating process of rebuilding the 4 speed 56-series trans, or just disassembling it enough to replace the front seal. (You'll want the datsun 1200 manuals specifically, for the transmission repair instructions.)

While I'm at it: how well does the A12 fit? Stock pan? No hard conflicts that require cutting the frame? I have a friend with a Midget and a broken crank, and I have a couple of spare datsun engines and a 4 speed transmission: maybe I can get her back on the road quickly.

I'm currently in the process of building an intake manifold to put two SU HS4's on an A14 for my Triumph. I'd be interested in seeing your progress on this.