I'm currently in the process of building an intake manifold to put two SU HS4's on an A14 for my Triumph. I'd be interested in seeing your progress on this.

Woo, thanks, that's exactly what I needed!

Because I do related stuff at work, I made my own EDIS controller to run a four cylinder EDIS module from a throttle position sensor and the EDIS tach output.
Apparently, other people here are running megajolts of various flavors.
Would someone be willing to share their advance map?
I have a stock A14, and what I've found online says that the stock normally aspirated megajolt advance map runs just fine... but I have yet to find that map online. If anyone has a 2d map they'd be willing to share, I'd love to take a look at it.
Mine has fairly arbitrary limits on map size, but a 10x10 would be a great start.

Thanks for any help or advice.

I had a recent alternator charging problem: it was charging because of residual magnetism in the core, but suddenly stopped charging when the core degaussed sufficiently. It turns out that on at least some cars (possibly not datsuns) the alternator charge light on the dash actually controls the field voltage on the alternator, and if the light's not connected (or burnt out) the alternator will work for a while, but possibly not indefinitely.

I can't get a good shot of the chopped oil pan, but here are shots of the spitfire installation and a closeup of the oil pump remote filter adapter and the lack of clearance between it and the right shock tower. There's about 2mm of clearance between the filter and the shock tower, and on the other side 3mm of clearance between the exhaust and the steering shaft, and on the bottom, about 3mm of clearance between the pan and the steering rack.

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  oilfilter_detail.jpg (62.99 KB)


  datsun_spitfire.jpg (175.06 KB)

By the way, expect some excitement the first time you let the clutch out: british master cylinders don't talk all that well to datsun slave cylinders, so you get full engagement in a couple cm of clutch pedal movement and it's pretty neck-snapping.

I put an A14 in a Spitfire. Some things to consider about getting the engine in the frame and under the hood: 1200 and a lot of A14/15 engines had front sump oil pans, and that sits right in the middle of the frame cross member that joins the front suspension towers on Spits and Midgets. Some B210's had mid-sump oil pans, and that'll get your engine 15cm lower by itself. (Get the matching oil pickup tube as well.) I ended up chopping the front out of the oilpan and welding in the back of a front-sump pan, so there is only enough clearance for the crank. That got me another 10cm. If you can move the engine so far back that the sump is behind that cross brace, you can drop it way down. I don't know how the frame rails are on the Midget, but I couldn't push an engine back as far as I wanted because the 60-series transmission wouldn't fit between the rails anymore.
The position of the oil pump, and specifically the filter, also was kind of terrible for a low/back placement. I ended up going with a remote oil filter, the filter itself on the backside of the front bumper, and that helped tremendously. The drag is that to mount/unmount the oil pump side of the remote, I have to remove the oil pump, to screw the adapter on, but in theory that should be a one-time thing.
It's way easier if you have a RHD midget. LHD means the exhaust wants to be just about where the steering linkages are (and you can't scoot off to the right because of the oil pump.)

And yeah the A14 is way lighter than the stock Brit engines, and the result is quite nice when you get it running.

Wow, a wealth of information! Thank you both.
This is for a street car, and I'm trying the best I can to raise low to mid rpm torque, so I'm going to try for long headers (given the pretty serious clearance constraints I have.) So as long as I'm making them, why not make them the best I can?
At the same time, I have an H72 or 77 head, so there's an air injection hole drilled through the head that connects all the exhaust ports anyway. It doesn't make sense to go totally overboard.
Now, I get to figure out how to imitate the GX header given my space constraints.
Thanks!

I'm thinking about making a custom exhaust header, when I move from the current single downdraft carb to a pair of sidedraft carbs.
On the one hand, since the intake/exhaust gasket has cylinders 2 and 3 siamesed with just one big rectangular hole, my initial assumption is there's no point trying to do long individual header tubes that join down lower.
On the other, when I look through pictures on the site I see stuff like ddgonzal's header that do in fact have two separate header tubes dropping down quite a ways before joining.

So what's the scoop? Is it worth putting a bit of extra metal in the header top to fill in between the two exhaust ports where the gasket is open? Are there gaskets that have a divider there to try to keep the two separate?

I'm tempted to use a bit of mesh and some copper wool to emulate that flame arrestor. Thanks!