Hi there

The CFC brand. ( Chung Fu Ching )

Which the cardboard wrapping says

I found not the best quality control is a problem, I believe

The panels a great, way less time spent if you were cutting rust out and repairing original doors
or panels.

The after market doors I got needed some work to get door and panel gaps right.

I spot welded all the inside corners of the door skins

When fitting up, they were flexing and had movement between the inner door
and the outer door skin

I think there are a couple of brands, I helped another member fit up his panels
They fitted way better and easier than mine did.

The difference could have been I think a 1976 ute
To my ute is a 1981

I would buy any panels from muscle car parts in Moorebank (Sydney)

He understands that sometimes a crappy panel slips through.

Might be willing to exchange a really bad one.

However, dont expect excellent fit up out of the box.
Some massaging and basic panel beating is required.

I believe most replacement panels, even on new cars require the same little tweaks
That's why panel shops charge money.
They are skilled at what they do.

With some banging, crashing and beer, occasional yelling.

I got all the panels to line up not to bad

Well the bench bleed might help

the pushrod needs to be exactly the right length.
Too long or short.

Can both cause problems.

A quick Google search.

This article will explain it will explain it better than I can type.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/techtalk/how- ... in-to-master-cylinder-gap

What size master did you get from maddat?

Hey Rocket

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing

They normally don't bleed very well if just installed straight on the car.

Might help to remove the master and try that.

Also if going disc front and rear.

Selection of the correct size master cylinder, will alter pedal effort and amount of travel.

To get the right amount of hydraulic advantage for your setup

While I'm here.

Those brake adjusters, for the rear shoes.

Get them cleaned up really good, nice and free on the threads and the slides, give them a scotch brite
A really light film of never seize helps on them too. ( not too much)
Just to keep them free and easy to adjust, but not coated in the stuff or you can contaminate the brake shoes

Will make getting your rear brake shoes adjusted easy and working real good

Looks great Ron

Well done!!!!

I'm impressed, did you take my advice about organising all the nuts and bolts etc..
Looks like you have all the brake parts still
Haha, just teasing..... great stuff mate

Sorry I haven't been able to help you more.
Other things in life happening.

Wish sometimes I could just play Datsuns all day everyday.

Your moving along nicely, great progress.

Chat soon

Sorry photos didn't attach.

I'll try sort that out

Is this the one you are after?

Straight of a running A15 with H89 cylinder head.

Reason removed, I swapped it and put twin DCOE 40s

Let me know or send me a PM

Hey mate

Nice ute BTW

Unless there are different variants in the light housings and retaining rings?..
Not sure on that one myself.

However, to fix your problem if you are missing the parts?

Or if like mine were, rusted,broken of in the hole, some missing etc....

The picture you have posted is the same as my lights.

What I did.

For the retaining ring, ( holds headlight lens into the housing)
They are a fine pitch threaded screw. Something like an M4 size and thread pitch

You file them flat, centre pop the middle of screw and drill them of with a really small.
Say 2mm drill bit, avoid if you can damaging the threads in the housing.
Then collapse the left over part of the screw.
Using a thread tap of M4 size, clean up and re tap the thread into housing.

Or, drill the out with a 3mm or 1/8 inch drill bit and put some, I think 8g gauge self tappers in
Stainless if you wanted

The adjusting screws I was missing a couple, so I made some up for that also.

The nut, in the picture you posted.
Is actually a small plastic insert that clips into a square hole in the body.
Again around a M5 fine threaded size I think that one is longer screw

On the Phillips head end of this screw, just slightly down the shank.
There is a raised lip, (like a washer) the same size as the screw head.

So then the small fork section in the headlight housing slips between this gap on the shank of the screw.

Then when the screw is turned in or out.
It pushes the headlight housing in on out to adjust the beam.

Each headlight has two of these screws.

One for vertical adjustment, one for horizontal adjustment

If none of that makes any sense and is just too damn confusing.

I'm really sorry.

Maybe I could take a few pictures and post..

Let me know

Cheers

I put some Toyota Paseo seats in mine.

I think the starlet ones are similar rails also.

Managed to make the toyota rails suit without too much work.

Picture of them a here

Might not be what your after. But I think the look neat and not too big for the car

datsun1200.com/uploads/newbb/18951_55cb4bfd254fe.jpg

Hey mate.

The black piece holds the cable onto the heater tap.
Also allows for adjustment of heat tap control

The washer and clip.
Also go with the heater box
Connecting control rod to heater box, room/vent flap

If that makes sense