At least a grand

Should've posted a comment to show appreciation. I found it very interesting also. I kept going back to see if you would show us how to put it all back together properly.

I can volunteer another box if that's what's needed

Is it registered in Vic? Where are you in Melbourne?

63A box - ticks all the boxes! Hard to find but worth the effort as it's all a bolt in fix. Should be strong enough to cope with a turbo (and these are the key words for any transmission) if used with some care.

Get an LPG Falcon - probably the cheapest car on the road. Cheap fuel, cheap parts, cheap insurance. 1 million kms is not uncommon in taxis. Reasonable comfort and plenty of room. I'm on my third - a Fairmont Ghia with 360,000 on the clock

Many long years ago I owned a few Triumph sedans which had Lucas mechanical injection. They were smooth and powerful (for the 70's, that is), but not especially economical. Compared to an HT Holden, smoother, more powerful and no more economical. Compared to a modern 2.5 litre 6 cylinder electronic injection motor you would say: not very smooth, not very powerful and a fuel guzzler.

In 1976 I worked for a guy that adapted the Lucas injection off a Triumph onto a 2.4 Jaguar engine and transformed the performance (mind you the Jag motor originally came with 2 x single throat downdraft stromber type carbies).

Mechanical injection is much simpler than electronic, and less effective. It did look good though! Ah, those were the days

Quote:

I think that the GX-5 transmission is the Option 1 (so called wide ratio) version. So called "wide ratio" as it is actually a reasonably close ratio gear set with direct (1:1) top gear and 1st gear about the same as a 4 speed with the result that you have five gears in the same spread of ratios as in the 4 speed 56 trans. The "option 2" 5 speed is also a direct top gear, but first gear is 2.6:1 -v- 3.7:1 in the other gearset. The result is that your five gear ratios will be in just about the same spread as 2-3-4 in a 4 speed, so it's virtually starting in 2nd and having an extra gear between 2nd and third and another extra gear between 3rd and top. This gearset is sometimes referred to (and IMO accurately) as "ultra-close ratio" with the other gearset called "mid-close ratio).

The mid-close ratio is fantastic to use in a road car and would be perfect for a road car used for a bit of track work. The ultra-close gearset is really only suitable for a track car. Getting a road car started on an uphill start with a 2.6 first gear and a modified engine that needs plenty of revs can be challenging for both driver and clutch.

As the only difference is a different gearset there is no way of telling which one you have without opening the transmission to count gears or driving the car. As soon as you drive it you'll know which one it is!

With engine and transmission in the car you could use Revhead's method to count rotations, but you'd need someone under the car watching the tail-shaft go round and another person turning the engine and watching the front pulley - probably only possible with the plugs out.

You shouldn't have difficulty selling a gearbox like this one - whichever gearset it has. If I'm cashed up (unlikely ) when you come to sell it I'd be interested in negotiating a fair price.

I'd like to know also

If I was selling them for that sort of ridiculous price I would've at least cleaned them up a bit - or maybe that's the ex-rally car look! Oops sorry, the ex-"JDM Datsun rally team vehicle" look.

A pair of Stanza Girlock calipers. One has been rebuilt (new hose also) because the bleeder stripped out. The other is in excellent order. These have done not a lot of time on a Sunny with an SR20. They were fitted to Stanza struts on the Sunny but thaey will bolt on to one of the two variants of Sunny struts also. The calipers have a nearly fresh set of standard pads in them and they come with a set of barely worn Race Brakes pads to suit.

These brakes on the standard Stanza discs were pretty much the same for everyday driving as the Verada discs/Commodore calipers that are now on the car! They're plenty adequate for a road car.

Pics up soon, but in the meantime imagine two brake calipers and you've pretty much got the right idea.

Warandyte Vic. Can post.

Make a sensible offer. Bear in mind that the rebuid of the caliper cost $80, the standard pads are probably $25 and the RB pads are probably $100+.