Did a lot of research on finding tri-metal bearings for my 1981 A15 (1488cc) motor. Highly recommended to go back with the same type of bearing. Most manufacturers that I spoke with provide bi-metal after market bearings. They say bi-metal are more forgiving. I am doing a mild rebuild and replacing both main and connecting rod bearings. The Clevite catalog shows they carry tri-metal for the same engine cc but for the years 1982-1983 and referenced as an E15 engine. The same bearings are also used for the 1597cc engine. When I called a supplier with the Clevite part number, they said it didn't cross over to the 210 vehicle. Are these the correct bearings for my 210 motor? DD.........

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I have the A15 engine. Will remeasure head chamber when it comes back from the machine shop.

Block is being decked 5 thousandths and GX head was shaved 5 thousandths. Any idea what my compression ratio will be? Piston dish is 13ml/cc and GX chamber was 28ml/cc prior to shaving.

Thanks DD. Sounds like a lot of work to pull all those parts. 1200's are scarce and bring good money in the US if the body is in tact. Haven't seen any in the Texas area lately. Surprised to come across this one in a salvage yard. Recently a couple of 510's in the North Texas area have sold for $4k-$5k without the engine and transmission just to give you an idea of what a Datsun can sell for in this area. They were simply a rolling chassis that required a complete restoration. And trucks from the 70's are going up in value as well. If I could get the whole car dirt cheap then it may be worthwhile to trailer it home. For my use with the MG, would be scoring another performance head, either the GX or H89. Everything else would end up In the classifieds or eBay. If I get the courage to bring it home, I will definitely post that information.

Thanks for the response. I wasnt sure if it was "customized". I read up on the Convertible information in Tech Wiki and saw a similar vehicle. The individual said it is a 4 speed. He took a picture with the hood propped open and I can't see any type of carburetion. It appears to have the A12 motor with the distributor up towards the front. May have him take another picture from the other side. Any idea what head this may have? I will see if this guy will pop the valve cover off. I bought a motor out of a 72 1200 last year and it had the GX head. Is there much value in the bumper and fenders? This yard is quite a ways from me, but if it has a GX head I would consider driving out there and pulling the front end off as well and post those parts in the classifieds. I am transforming a MG Midget with the A15 engine and 5 speed transmission and have gained an appreciation for the 1200 along the way.

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I am not familiar with this vehicle and would like to know any information on the engine and/or transmission. Owner is calling it a Deluxe. Are the convertibles rare?? Owner will take a look under the hood before I make an effort to drive out there and get parts. Looking for another set of SU carbs and want to know if this model has them.

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Thanks DD. So based on the two close up images I should rehone it to get closer to 45 degrees?

I found this on the Ratsun Forum regarding cross hatching:

CROSS HATCH ANGLES

The correct angle for cross hatch lines to intersect is approximately 45 degrees. Too steep an angle promotes oil migration down the cylinder resulting in a thin oil film which can cause ring and cylinder scufflng.
Too flat a cross hatch angle can hold excess oil which conversely causes thicker oil films which the piston rings will ride up on or hydroplane. Excessive oil consumption will result.
The diagrams will illustrate cross hatch angles.

My honing looks more like the "Too Flat" image. Is this something to have redone with the 45 degrees if that's possible after its been honed already? Any comments are welcome.

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You got me thinking about the machine work quality. Here are some closer images of the bore. I spoke with another machine shop and they said a hone should be about 33 degrees. If the angle is too much, then the oil may find its way down thru those hone marks. The images do show a slight angle. I'm not an expert here so any additional feedback is welcome. Thanks for bringing this to my attention.

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Its been a while since I have posted. Finally got my engine back from the machine shop. I noticed the engine block deck is pitted in certain areas. Do I need to deck the block or will the head gasket take care of any imperfections? Machine shop never brought it up to me and I didnt notice it till I set it on the engine stand. Also need to find a supplier for piston rings and bearings. Piston bores were within tolerance as well as the crankshaft. Block was not hot tanked so that I could reuse the cam bearings. One of the images (A15block4) shows a brass plug in the center. This is stock from the factory or was the block modified?

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