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   All Posts (pro240c)


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pro240c
Re: My EFI manifold A12
#31
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that manifold will flow better than any poxy piece of emissions controlled factory junk.

good runner size there too, a great length and diameter. by my rough calcs by looking at that, you should have peak torque at about 3800rpm.

the throttlebody is a great size too, people get so obsessed with this part but it really make 5/8ths of fukcall difference to your driveability, but really helps midrange and topend power.

injector position is good - facing the back of the valve - and as close to it as possible is always a good idea as it minimises flow reversion thru the vacuum created by the other cylinders.

i like it. two thumbs up from me.

Posted on: 2005/8/9 9:53
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pro240c
Re: 1000 with moddified L-series
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why don't you just put an L18 crank and rods in a 2.0mm oversize L16 block?

use 1.5mm flycut pistons and deck the block 1.5mm and fit a bigger chain tensioner.

deck the head about 1.0mm and get on with it...?

or source an L14 from Errol.

Posted on: 2005/7/27 5:05
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pro240c
Re: draw through questions experts opinions please
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you'll need to have the turbo rebuilt with a carbon front core seal (unless the cordia turbos came with one factory).

because the throttle is BEFORE the turbo now, the engine vacuum will pull oil out of the core when you're off throttle.

Posted on: 2005/5/2 2:45
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pro240c
Re: A14 injectors
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for a petrol engine i would have said VL 320cc injectors would flow MORE than enough fuel.

however, methanol runs at...what - 4:1 A/F ratio vs 12:1 for a petrol? so if your fuel consumption is upped 3 times, then up your injector size 3 times.

heading into expensive territory there! talking about 1000cc indys here - like $300 a piece!

Posted on: 2005/4/29 5:41
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pro240c
Re: ca series hybrid
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don't even bother with an unopened CA20 block. the conrods might as well be made of fibreglass for all they are. they are the crappiest little rods for the amount of stroke they have to endure.

they have an inferior oiling system too(compared to the CA18).

if you want something original, maybe use the CA20 block and crank, try and adapt some L series rods with L series pistons and use the CA18DE head.

that's if the CA18 head even matches up.
it may do - but then, it may not either.

i think the key word here is research

Posted on: 2005/4/8 6:01
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pro240c
Re: interesting blower carby question
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Quote:

A14force wrote:
No son, NO!!!
Blowers increase fuel consumption, end of story!
My car was nearly impossible to accelerate in without boosting. And belive me, when that power is there, you've just got to use it.
Open road driving is fine, because most of the time the engine is at cruise throttle, meaning there is vacuum in the manifold, and "normal" fuel consumption. Around town I cut out over $80 gas in less than a week, where my non supercharged A14 would only use about $20. (That was when gas was a bit cheaper too.

You're gonna use more gas, just get used to the idea!


oh okay.

so you'd use MORE in traffic an LESS on the highway yeah...?

Posted on: 2005/4/8 2:02
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pro240c
Re: Bore a12 how far can you go
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Quote:
While I can't remember all the details, I do remember that the dynamics of the piston at times of critical valve events are more favourable to performance engines with longer rods for a given stroke. Obviously only within a certain range, but I seem to recall that many many years ago race engine builders aimed at 2:1 rod to stroke ratios, but I think a figure around 1.8 is more flexible and realistic. Rod lengths under 1.6 were though of as poor according to my memory. And your rod to stroke ratio comes out to about 1.57:1, but I used less than 100% accurate rod length figures in that calculation, but it shouldn't affect the results to the quoted accuracy.


spot on.

the L16 / L24 have a 1.8:1 rod/stroke ratio, which is, according to many an expert, the "perfect" rod / stroke ratio for a powerful NA engine that not only revs hard, but produces useable torque in the midrange.

1.57:1 is a very short ratio indeed, and i think overall driveability will be compromised unless it's cammed & carbed up to make up for poor cylinder filling otherwise. and engine like this would CERTAINLY respond well to boost though.

HOWEVER

i can see Dodgeman's point. not wanting to cut the car for originality leaves you with few options for more power.

but i'm with L18_B110 here. similar situation is when i think to myself "why put an L18 crank, rods and pistons in a +2.0mm L16 block?" when you you could just use an L18 to start with. sure, if you wanted to keep a 1600 in immaculate condition with original numbers then yeah, go for it. otherwise, anyone else would just swap in an L18.

this thread has gotten all too technical for me.

Posted on: 2005/4/7 9:55
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pro240c
Re: turbo A14
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i can sell you some ocky straps for $5.95 + freight, then you can strap the turbo to the side of your A14.

Posted on: 2005/4/7 6:53
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pro240c
Re: interesting blower carby question
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more air means more fuel - yes (up to stoich anyways).

more air + more fuel = more power.

more power + light car = less torque required to drive said car.

less torque required = less fuel required.

Posted on: 2005/4/7 6:51
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pro240c
Re: Bore a12 how far can you go
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Quote:
But volumetric efficiency is certainly partially a product of valve events.




understatement of the year!

Posted on: 2005/4/7 4:51
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