Thanks - that's actually a good simple form of insurance and would be fine in a racecar (wish I'd come up with it myself - doh!). Would obviously need to create space/holes for the bolt heads.

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Thanks - looks like some nice gear but my Japanese is a little rusty. What is the process to purchase from them?

I'd go with bad earth too. Had the same issue once. Suggest running a length of wire from the tacho earth wire direct to the negative battery pole and see what it does then as another way to check.

Where did you source all this from? How much was the Head Gasket? Assume we're talking about a proper engine? (ie "A" series)

It is a racecar. Std mounts have been fine so far.

Just a bit old/perished and I'm concerned they will tear apart during a race and that I'll have an engine jumping around damaging itself and the car.

Looking to replace/renew my rubber engine mounts in 1200 Coupe.

What have others used/tried as a close replacement? (Maker and Part no. would be good).

Think you'll find L series clutch plate is the go.

Like the airbox - where's it from?

I'd be surprised if you could still buy new synchros for these. If they're the brass type, rather than the steel "Porsche"/dog engagement type which my 56A 1:1 5-speed uses, they're same as a standard 'box.

I built my 56A 4-speed CR 'box up using the option 2 gear kit and into an old standard 'box. Also had on hand another old 'box or two and used the best of the synchros.

So far as bearings go just took any worn ones to a bearing shop and they sold me equivalent replacements.

I'm not a mechanic but with a bit of intuition and a standard workshop manual had no probs.

Ballast restistor reduces the voltage running through the points to stop them burning out.