Dodgeman

I know they are Hitachi SU's.
This you have mentioned to me a couple of times. Even in the mails I send you in the past asking for some advice.
I am just too lazy to type out HITACHI SU's.
It is quicker for me to type only SU.
If I mislead someone in this I am sorry.
About the A15 or A14 cylinder head story.
I think it was discussed before I joined this site.

Tommy.
Basically check everything that moves inside the carbs to see if they have grinding marks or a play on them.
Check how clean they are on the inside.
If they are clean, the guy probably used a aircleaner.Witch is good.
What I did in connection with the butterfly wear, I held the carb up into the sunlight with the butterfly in the closed possition.
There must not come any sunlight in around the edges of the butterflies and the bushes that opens and closes the butterfly.
This is where mine had wear that I bought as spares from someone.Small amount of sunlight was visible around the bushes.
This will cause them to idle too high as too much air and fuel will be coming in.

Dodgeman.
I leave the corrections to you if I made any mistakes on this.

Dodgeman.
Yes, you are right the manifold will not fit onto his head.
But I saw yesterday at the suspention place where my suspention rubbers were replaced a A14 utility that they fitted a SU intake manifold and two SU's.
It is maybe possible it is a oval A14 head with the correct bolt pattern.
Do you know if the A15 cylinder head with oval ports have the correct bolt pattern for the SU intake manifold?

Reeves.
I think your best option would be for a single 40 sidedraft weber and extractors.
Your problem will be that you will have to fabricate your own intake manifold.
If my SU's gets worn out so that they are not usable anymore, I am going to fit a single sidedraft weber.

Oops.
Dodgeman are right.

The GX engine did come with all those extra stuff as mentioned.
But Dodgeman I would like to know something.
Will he not get a bit better performance with the Su's and still have good fuel consumption?

A Nissan mechanic friend of mine said that SU's give better torque than the standard carb that the deluxe came out with.
The head will also help with torque because it gives better compresion and as far as I know higher Comp gives more torque.
I am trying to help Reeves with a cheap power upgrade without opening the engine.

Hi Reeves

I know we talked on the phone about these things, but I am going to write again the stuff I know. Basiccaly for others to comment on if they want to.

As you know I drive a 1200GX that came from the factory with hitachi flattop SU's.

1. I have manuals that I got on the internet on tuning these carbs. If you do get hold of hitachi SU's that are in good condition you can give me a ring and I will gladly mail them or fax them to you. Mine has'nt been retuned in about 3 to 4 years.
2. Sidedrafts I will not reccomend. I wanted to put them on myself but since then have decided to stick to my Su's.
Basically they are heavy on fuel consumption and need constant tuning. This is what I was told.
3. Power. Hitachi Su's give good power with good fuel economy. I must admid I have a GX head also that helps with a bit of more power than the stock 1200 cylinder head.
But I took on one night a 1400 utility.
To be precise a Nissan 1400 champ.
We dragged 3 traffic lights after each other.
Spaced about 300m apart.
I remember this because after the 3rd one my brakes started to fade away.
EVERY time I grabbed 3rd gear I started to pull a gap on him. 1st and second we were side by side. I revved to 6000rpm.
4. Parts. Nissan only sells the needle and seats now and the needle that lets fuel in and out. No other parts are available.
5. When looking at buying used SU's look at the butterfly for wear. I bought another pair and did not look at this. These butterflies are worn and I think are useless to me.
6. Personally I will also not put on a 32/36 as many complained on this site about jetting and flat spots. Rather put on a 34mm weber carb or MAYBE a single 40 sidedraft weber.
A single will be easier to tune and good on fuel.

Let me know if you need any other info.
You still have my number.

Do you think it was a good idea to replace ALL rubbers on the front suspention?

Even if there came damage to two bolt holes in the body that you must use to bolt the stabilizer arm to the body?
It was not too serious. They just rethreaded the holes for a bigger size bolt and it bolted successfully up. The new rubbers are quite harder than the old ones that was removed.
Old ones felt like silicone. So soft were they. Ball joints was also replaced.
Why I am asking is just that I hate when the bolts strip thread and it must be tapped for a larger one.I want to use the original bolts when replacing something.
My car currently has three such larger bolts on it.
Two on the stabilzer arm and one at the gearbox mounting.
Maybe I must get over it and just accept that such things will happen.

Hi Reeves

Unfortunately I think the only way to solving your problem will be to remove the tank.
I may be wrong but I think you remove the back seats's back rest and the cover in the boot that covers the tank.
Bolt it loose and take it out.
The chain idea I think is also a good idea to get all the crap loose inside and make sure to flush it properly not to leave any of that stuff behind that will find its way to your engine.

Good luck

Hi all

I got all my suspension rubbers and all balljoints replaced yesterday.
Everything went well except the DAMN bolts that you use to bolt the stabelizer arm to the body. One bolt on each side pulled out of the body stripping the thread where they are suppose to be screwed in.
This was due to the new rubbers's tension.
It had so much tension that they struggled to bolt it on and it damaged the thread.
They rethreaded the holes and bolted larger size bolts in the place of these two that pulled out of the body stripping the thread.
Luckily no serious damage. Just using two larger size bolts on the stabelizer arm's bolts.

Anyways, I would reccomend doing this to anyone of you guys.
The steering is more precise and the car feels more stiff up front on the suspention.
Basically feels new again.

My question now is the following:
My tyres wore out on the outside in the past. This is basiccally why I did the rubbers and also because they were old.
After the rubbers were put in, they set up the wheel alignment.
After alignment the guy said it is going to run of on the one tyre on the outside again and the other tyre on the inside.
He said he can fix this by bending a little bit the shock absorber.
Can I tell him to do it to fix this or will it damage something.
He said they will bend it just above the ball joint. Not on the part that travels in and out.
Do you guys have similar problems with wheel alignment and tyre wear?.

Oops. I forgot to mention.
I did check the oil in the dampers.
They where on the dot.
I think I must rather remove and clean them up nicely again.
It was done about 8 to 9 years ago.
I think it is time to clean up again.

Mine also needs a clean and a rebuild, I think.

When I pull away from standstill my car chug chugs asif someone turned it off and back on again.
It cannot be points as they were replaced and tuned a couple of kilometers ago (less than 5000km and it still did it after the new points). The carbs were cleaned really a long time ago.

My question to add to this forum.
What must one look at when cleaning them and what is involved in a rebuild of these carbs.
Any hints or tips will be appreciated.
I also am thinking of replacing my needle and seats with genuine nissan one's.
How do I get the float level 100% correct.
(Actually I know how, I need to know what is the correct float level)
I unfortunately do not have the factory tools to tune this part.
Thanks

While we are on the subject of spark plugs.

How tight must they be turned in when installing them. Anybody have the Nm torque setting?
Must I put a light film of oil on the groves before installing them?
Thanks