Hi. I read a couple of times about this. Can you please explain what is done? I spoke to Rezlo also about this and other South African members and they say I am going to struggle finding someone in SA doing it correctly. Better to just make sure existing tappets are clean with no pit marks and reuse them as is.Any advice?
Hi I just got hold of a second hand cam that is going to be re profiled. What wear must I be looking at that might make the cam useless. Only wear that looks worrying is on that gear that drives the distributor. It has small wear marks on the teeth. Is this normal?
Thanks for the replies. They were unfortunately a little late as I connected all the wires over the weekend.Haven't switched on yet. Gonna do it this week somewhere. Need to tidy up a bit.
I earthed the relays and the light in front of the battery below at the metal plate that supports the battery tray.The other side I earthed to the bolt that bolts the horn to the radiator support panel next to the radiator.I noticed that the horn is also earthing this way. I think it will work although I am going to replace that earth wire that PIGDOG was talking about with a thicker one just to be safe.
Hi Guys I need advice. I am busy putting relays on the sealed beams and then later gonna put in semi sealed with higher wattage output bulbs. My problem is the following: I saw that the indicator lights on the side panels are attached to the lights earth on both sides. I disconnected them and earthed the one below at the battery tray and the other side (passenger side) I earthed it behind the horn which is bolted and earthed next to the radiator. I want to earth the lights the same locations. I saw that the thick negative wire goes from battery to the engine and then there is a thinner one going from the engine where the thick one is bolted to, to the battery tray below. Am I save to presume that my setup will work because the whole car body is a negative. The relays also needs to be earthed. The relays I am installing next to the light that is in front of the battery tray.I am going to earth them also to the battery tray below where that thin wire is connected.
I might be going fuel injection with management later and just want to make the setup so that it will not have a problem with the electronics of the future management.
That is the same reason I am going to stay A12. If you go A14/15 the gearbox and diff will need attention which drastically chase up the the price to do some mods to the car.
First things I would do is things that will not let the car stand too long. Do the electronic ignition first. You will clearly see a difference. I did. Started much easier when cold and idled much smoother and a liiiitle bit more power. Not much, but it was there. You can then do the cylinder head and the flywheel. Something that won't make the car stand tooo long. The extractors and exhaust you can also do.
If you want to keep the A12 then here is a list: 1. Most important in my opinion.Balance everything. 2. Cam. 276?????? 3. mild head work.Why I say MILD is because you are sitting with a GX head which is very difficult to source in good unmolested condition. Unless you have a stock standard spare one, go only mild. 4. extractors and exhaust. 5. Do you have the SU's? 6. lighten flywheel. 7. electronic ignition.
Clive and I have become good friends on this forum although we have never met in person. We chatted today/yesterday about this via PM and he said he is going to go for Toyota 45mm throttles.
I however agree with jmac and early this morning before he made this thread, I suggested the 43mm Toyota throttles as the guys on the VW forum had problems with power on their 2liter 16 valve ABF engines. One guy didn't get good mid range power on 45's and decided to sell them and go to 43's. His mid range was better, car was more drivable and he got a liiiittle extra power at top revs.
As mentioned to Clive however, these engines are using max 7000rpm, not a flowed head (although more valves) and something in the region of 276 cams.