sparkyza is right, an internally regulated alternator would definately be the better option. First thing I do with a new datto is replace teh alternator with a new 70 amp Leece Neville universal alternator (retails about $180). If you're in brissie, PM me and I'll sort you out trade price.

I'm not sure what you mean by 'L shaped' clip, if it is teh main battery positive wire the rectifier is probably knackered, if it is teh 2/ 3 pin connection, the reg is probably knackered. either way, if you've got a int reg alt lying around, fit it up. Depending on brand/ type, you will need to locate the warning lamp and possibly ignition wires at teh regulator and extend to the alt.

it could also be that the current draw discharging your battery is un related to your alt probs. using an ammeter between the battery positive post and terminal, check teh actual current draw with everything off and all doors closed. if it exceeds 0.05 amps, it will flatten a battery overnight. keeping the ammeter in place, pull fuses/ disconnect consumers until the draw goes away. this will tell you which circuit/ consumer is drawing and allow you to diagnose the fault. if no excessive draw is shown (<0.05A), the problem may be with the batteries, (I know that you said one was 'good', but sometimes even brand new parts fail). maybe at that point it may be time to see your local auto elec. if he/ she is ok with it, they may even let you watch while they sort it out, valuable for next time!

The alt warning light is earthed via the external regulator, not the alternator. The alternator drives the regulator warning lamp circuit via the neutral {star point) connection within the alternator stator windings. The lamp coming on and the headlights becoming brighter at the same time usually indicates a faulty wiring connection between the neutral output at the alt and the reg. at this point, the reg thinks teh alternator is not charging, increasing field current and thereby increasing the charge voltage to compensate, while at the same time bringing on the warning lamp. Check/ rewire the 3 wires between the alt and reg and your problem should clear up.

The problem with your dash is most probably due to the voltage regulator for your guages overheating and going open circuit. These regs are simple bi-metal circuit breaker types and prone to shutting down when input voltage gets too high. (High engine revs and small alt pulley). Good solution is a solid state adjustable voltage regulator kit from Jaycar or Dick Smiths, using an upgraded transistor and heatsink. If you're pulling the dash anyway, you may as well fix the problem for good.

Hey guys, I've been through this all before with an apprentice who wanted to inject his 1200 coupe. We adapted the CFI throttlebody from a N13 pulsar and used all of the sensors (adapted), fuel pump and computer that came with it. The computer is a Delco (GM) that is easily reprogrammed by most performance shops. I think that the main problem was adapting electronic ignition for the injector drive (still needs to be timed to the intake stroke)seem to remember an aftermarket system being used in the end. As this system is designed for a 1.6, it performed very well in the 1200 and an A14 that was swapped in later after a dynotune/program. Bottom line is that the ford unit will most probably overfuel the system- don't forget that with a carb you have a much higher incidence of unburnt hydrocarbons (fuel) passing straight through- hence the need to time the injectors with the engines firing sequence. Too much fuel can be just as bad in performance terms as not enough.

Just a quick note also that we played around with two of the pulsar throttlebodies on a 186 red but ended up putting a blue head and VK injection on instead.

Hope this helps!

My 73 1200 ute is stock except for a retrim, respray and 13" wheels. Sits on 110 on the hiway no probs.

I'll take that stock carb if it's still available. Mine has a badly flogged out butterfly shaft which makes it lean out and stall at idle sometimes. Embarassing.

Somethings still not right with the charging, 15V is way too high.
Check at which point he reg is sensing batt voltage.

Your voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running should be 13V9 to 14V3 ideally.
Over 15V as you said you were getting is way too high. If your rotor circuit in the alternator is fed full field current ( causing overcharging)it will overload the engine and cause it to stall. This will also drop ignition voltage. My advice is get the alternator and regulator tested together by an auto-elctrician or mechanic to be certain.

Currently twin 45's on manifold on ebay.