I have stanza struts in my coupe and have not cut them down as yet. Appears to be OK.

When shopping for stanza struts there are two brake types used. During production nissan used the australian made girlock caliper and also a japanese caliper.

Personally I would get struts with the girlock calipers. These were also used on other cars (eg) toyota corona. So pads and spare calipers are easy to obtain.

Good luck

FOR SALE

1200 Coupe center console - It is in very good condition for it's age. The chrome highlights are in excellent condition. Has had no holes drilled in it / or modifications. The vinyl gear stick boot needs re-newing as it has some cracks in it.

Make an offer

$10 freight to anywhere in Aust

Emai: jcoxon@jwacs.wa.edu.au for pix and enquires.

A rotary engine in my opinion would be pretty hard on a standard Datsun gearbox especially if you are using a turbo rotary. Wouldnt expect the gearbox to last long.

I would use the gearbox that would be normally attached to the rotary. Say its a 13b from a rx7 I would use the rx7 gearbox.

The diff in a 1200 is a little undersized so I would probally look at replacing it also. Doing it now would be the best option as you will need a new tail shaft.

The 1200 tail shaft is pretty light duty and will be the wrong length for the new engine combo. So upgrade it with a heavier item with bigger universal joints. (These are the flexible joints in the tail shaft which compensate for the angle and movement of the diff assembley)

A rotary into a mazda piston engined car, datsun, toyota, mitsubishi galant etc has been done before so maybe read up on old fast 4s magazine or simular for tips about what to use.

Have fun

Doing the same thing in my coupe. I have a set of springs which achieve a ride height which is what I want. But this ride height is not legal. Coz of the catalitic convertor under the car.

So have stanza springs cut and nicely painted for rego purposes.

You dont need to cut alot of these springs to lower the car 2" etc. So take little bits at a time. Its trial and error.

Rare Spares or Scotts Rubber.

Little trick I learnt coz you will find doors and boot will be very hard to shut. Cover the rubbers in Talcum Powder and shut and leave for as long as possible. Mine got better over 1 week and are getting better over time.

The gue I used is from 3M. Cant think of its number at the moment. It comes in a red box and its a clear contact adhesive which tacks off in 30 sec and sticks instantly.

Available from good independant auto stores.

Its $35.00 for 200ml tube but its excellent. Have used it before. And stures well in the fridge

Good point. Coz it bloody cold here at the moment.

Maybe I could gently soften them with the hair dryer and leave overnight ???

Tried closing with the windows down but it was the same. Annoyed because gapped and set the doors up perfect and now they dont shut.

I replaced the door seals on my 1200 coupe with the rare spares ones.

They fit into the door around the top and you gue them into place the rest of the way like the originals. With a join at the bottom.

BUT THE DOOR DON'T SHUT. You can shut the door firm and get the first click on the latch. I spoke to the Rare Spares rep and he reckons leave it on the first click for a few weeks and the rubbers will compress into the desired shape and all will be fine.

What do you reckon - anyone else had this problem?

Any opinions on the following idea.

Would it be suitable to bend the required shaped heater hose out of copper and then attach it to the motor and the heater box with a 80mm section of hose.

Would this allow for enough movement?

Hope fully someone can same me some time searching through all the heater hoses at the local auto shop.

What hose or combinations (cut and join) are suitable to adapt the CA18DET outlets to the heater box im my 1200 Coupe.

Dont want to do it with the plastic elbows and a handful of clamps as this looks crap.

Any sudjestions appreciated.