good point B120dat, hadn't thought of that- will drain the tank and see how I go with new fuel...

my last 1200 coupe had a similar problem with old fuel from a jerry can- new fuel and all back to normal.

thanks lads, I will pull the carby off tomorrow and strip it and wash everything thoroughly.
when I think about it, the bloody thing started happening after a particularly hard run up a long, steep hill... some crap may have gone through the fuel filter and is lodged under the needle or something- will let you all know anyway...

Hey Tom, the prep work on the short motor was done by a reputable blown engine builder and I fabricated most of the add-ons. The blower mounts, inlet manifold, water-injection and stuff like that was all done with the help of a mate.

Total cost after all dyno time and tuning was around the $AU5000 mark, but this included replacing all the front end components as well- sway bars, bushes, brakes, radiator, thermo fans, heater hoses etc. Also included forged internals, balancing, re-grind of cam and a massive port job...

A bit pricey but you could get away with it for around $1500 if you were a bit handy and didn't do the lot. I am confident that I could throw a turbo on this motor and run up to 20psi through it. Which I may do a little later on...?

If you need any other details PM me and I will be happy to provide...

no idea dude.

I have a few scratches and stuff that i need to patch as well- will speak to someone today...

I may have to respray the lot- thats what I will be telling the wife anyways

Thanks guys, great info. Will check all the listed areas today. I seem to think that the needle in the SU may be bent or a little distorted.
When doing the dynoing and shaving the needle for fuel requirements, the needle resemble a thin sewing needle by the time i had finished and was very, very thin at the wedge end.
Does anyone know of any material other than brass that needles can be made from. I have recorded the increments of my needle in 1/8 inch sections and can fabricate a needle if need be... just don't know what to use...

Hey kegs, sorry about the photos. I tried to catch up with Lobster on the weekend, but his phone was off. I will give him a call once i have finished here. I will also try and get up to Sydney over the next few weekends and come by so you can have a look...

In regards to the chugging, it sounds like a v8 running a huge cam. Quite a bit of engine shake and almost throbby under light acceleration. Smooths out instantly once I accelerate harder. Could it be the cam? I have done about 1000kms since build and ran it in on the dyno. Any thoughts that a cam would change profile after about 1000kms and dyno run-in??

Hey Salty,
All the usual stuff- forged pistons, hardened valves, springs etc. I wanted reliabilty as well as performance. Blower is off the 4agze toyota motor. Runs 5psi at 2500 rpm and 10 psi at 6000 rpm.

Relatively cheap, but I put all the fruit on to ensure longevity of the motor (water injection, big radiator etc). Very driveable on the street (in the dry) and isn't too bad on the track either...

From memory, my s/c a14 is putting out about 125 hp at the wheels. I have to admit that the hp figure was not what I was interested in.

TORQUE is what gives you the push in the back, and TORQUE is what makes the thing pull instantly off idle.

Turbo's are good. Toyota motors are good. Race prepped motors are good, but the only prob with all of these is that you have to rev the nuts off them to get the big hp figures.

Get blown dude, you won't regret it...

Alright guys (and gals), I got a problem.

My little a14 has a has developed a terrible chugging when idling. I don't know what it is, but it is starting to annoy me.

I have been through all the usual checks- mixtures, plugs, leads, timing. Everything is perfect. It only does it when idling, when I accelerate and the s/c starts boosting it goes like the clappers. Pull up at the next set of lights and chug chug chug...

Maybe a bent needle in the SU- anyone have any knowledge??

Hey there,
Just in relation to the trumpets- keep them on if you can. There is some evidence that they actually help speed up the intake air and help with higher rpm hp.
As far as manifolds go for the SU's, check the redline catalaogue- I am sure they do one for a SU's onto a 1600...

Cheers