Hey a14force, good to see that its all done. is this for the s/charged motor? or will you be running na to start off with?

in any event, get some bluing grease and match port all inlets/outlets to really get your moneys worth.

a dye grinder is the male equivalent of a vibrator...grind baby grind...lol...

hey a14force, I've got the dogleg option 1 in my ute and I've got a spare in the garage. If I end up beefing up to something stronger, I will probably get rid of one of them. I will let you know when that is (probably 3 months away- no money)....

dont know how much freight would cost to go there though...??

Thanks guys, (clutches??) thread was very interesting and I will endeavour to source the Micra Turbo clutch here in Canberra (or Sydney if I have to).
I know that I should probably opt for the multi plate clutch or something a bit beefier, but as the weakness of the gearbox will be my next problem, I will wait until I can source a decent 'box.
Speaking of which, where can I find gear ratio figures on various gearboxes? The option one is a good close ratio box, but now I have some decent torque on tap, I would like something with a bit more of a spread...

Standard ute clutches are all that I have been using (I had 3 spares - now none). Its not too bad if I ease the power on, but if I put my foot flat in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gear, it just cooks them.
The water injection is on a micro switch under the accelerator and is activated when it is at full throttle. Works well, but that is when the real power comes on (drops inlet temps from around 85 degrees down to 40 instantly) and the clutches let go.
I haven't done any research as far as the clutches go, but am keen to give anything a go...
As for photos, I will meet up with lobster this week and let him post some on the site

it was only a matter of time. I have fried several clutches and need some help choosing something better.
Any suggestions to get me more than a month of driving for a reasonable price (under $500)? I've got an option one five-speed box in at the moment- does this make a difference for clutch choices?

Any help would be appreciated

Hey dattodevil, I have got a blown a14 but no camera to display the little bugger . Just to put my 10 cents worth in, I decided on the a14 because of the 'square' bore design. Good torque, good revs - not too peaky and still has enough torque off the line.

Once I have a camera I will be posting a heap of photos...

S/charging the a series is definitely worth the effort- give it a go. If you need any advice/details let me know

Hey Buff,
Just had a look at the ozdat site and there is a dude in knoxville, victoria with a 32/36 weber for sale with all linkages (to suit datsun sunny) for $125. It is the first ad in the spares list. Worth a look and not a bad price.
Happy hunting...

Hey, why don't you get a decent single sidie for now -run the motor in. Then save up another $1000 or so and get a cheap s/charger and manifold. Bolt it all together and blow the twin sidies into the weeds...

If you are building a strong bottom end, you might as well make use of it.

All this talk of twins and singles... get blown dude!!

hey 1200rallycar, how's things? good questions dude. for the water injection set-up on my s/c a14, i searched for info on the placement of where the water was to be injected. loads of different opinions with varying results. i didn't have time to do any testing of different locations but everything i read and everone i spoke to said that water going into the s/c wouldn't bother it.
the replacement cost of a s/c impellers (or a new s/c) is a helluva lot cheaper than replacing pistons...

hope this helps

Like everything else, I went through a load of info about water injection before even considering it. I always thought that prevention was better than cure, and if you needed water injection to solve a problem, then you should try and go to the heart of the problem and fix that instead.
That was a load of garbage- water injection rocks. It is cheap, reliable and easy to install. The results are quite remarkable and you can really dial in some timing once that you hook it up.
I basically plumbed in a line after the SU carby and before the s/c. Several reasons: i figured that this would cool the charge before it got to the s/c (and once that it is compressed, that's when it gains most heat). The other reason was that the s/c would ensure that the water was adequately dispersed through the charge- like a big mixer.
I used a small pump (around 35psi i think) and a small atomising nozzle which had an external thread and threaded it straight into the hole that i drilled.
it is all hooked up to an actuator switch at the back of the accelerator, that only comes on when my foot is flat. Quite simple, works well and keeps the little bugger cool and not detonating...
Washer bottle is fine, but I am looking for something a little more asthetic- maybe polished aluminum - don't know yet - any ideas???

Will have photos soon...promise...!