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As you can see, I'm not alone

Taking about availability of Datsun parts not only in Belgium but in nearly hole Europe, it is = 0
All Datsun and Toyotas have been sold to Africa regardless of rust, engine damage, missing parts. Africa took it all.
Only way to get a Datsun is buy one where they are still running for exemple PORTUGAL. You can compare it a bit to California, US. Much sun, few humidity, no salt against snow. Even better are cars from the isle of Madeira. That is were I bought my 2 B110 2door and 1 510 4door.

So if you need much parts for a conversion/swap you take it from another cars you bought before or you just buy a new ones.

You're right I had 910 still as NOS in my warehouse.

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This Is a fine description of what I was worried about. If the ride height is not good, if I have to lower the car a bit more.....what happens to my spring?....not enough preload! As I will work with height ajustable spring perches

I could use a helper spring to give enough preload at full suspension travel. But before using a helper, you have to choose the right main spring. That is what all this topic is about.

And don't forget I will use a SR20DET, so a 1200 aftermarket sport spring will compress to much under the more weight of the SR20DET. At least that is what I suppose.
Butr at least I know now that I have to start with 240Z shocks.
It seems that Tokico Illuminas are preferable to the Koni's as I read on the 510 mailing list.
Thanks to all,
Chris
To all 910 strut user keep the forum updated about your experience

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Please give me an exemple of what you calll a factory part for my 910 strut?

The problem I have is with the stroke of both spring and shock insert. The stroke of spring should be shorter as the shock to prevent bottoming. At least that is what I think.
Once I have chosen a shock insert and I have cut the 910 strut, I can measure the stroke of this insert. I then know what free lenght the spring need to have. But how to be sure that the car will not drop to low?
For the spring rate I suppose I have to watch the spring rate for similar cars with the same engine. S14 or more NX with SR20?

Does anyone know how to choose the correct spring rate for a fast road SR20DET powered 1200?
And how do you choose the correct free spring lenght if you are going with coilovers.
I'm going tu use 910 struts, don't know what inserts to choose for them, and by the same I don't know how far I have to cut them. HELP

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I suppose that's B310 steering arms?

Are you going to usethe 910 strut as it (stock), or are you converting them to Koni, Tokico with coil springs?

I found this AU company
www.beyondthelimit.com.au

But I don't know if its T25? It's told to be custom. Maybe they can do it with T25.
I'll try to find out.

Can anyone tell me where to get a narrow top mount turbo manifold with T25 flange for my SR20DET project?

I'm going SR20DET too in my 2 door.
The car is LHD so I will have some clearance problems with the Steering box. But I discovered a AU company selling top mount turbo manifolds. So this problem can be fixed. As a Nissan technician all I can tell about the weaknesses of the SR20DE(T) is, the SR20DE is strong! Have a few customers with NX's and Primera's (think this is G20 in the US) with more than 200.000 km with no problem at all, not even oil burning. The SR20DET is another story. The first cars sold in Europe all finished with a worn out exhaust cam. Changing only the cam wasn't enough, as Nissan was still producing the same bad one. The second generation came 2 years later and was OK! But changing just the cams wasn't enough as we discovered later. All the metal dust had found it's way through the engine, NVTC, Turbo and cam lubrification channel. So after the cams it was up to the Turbo and last but not least the engine lost compression.
But once the engine redone with the new cams, no problem anymore.

Just my 2 cents

Hi friends,

I searched the forum for info on 910 struts on the B110.
It seems that I need 120Y control and steering arms. Is that true?

Cheers,

With my SR20DET swap the OE H145 diff will not last for long!
What rear axle with stronger diff can be used in the 1200 without going to width.

TIA,