After looking at the idea to machine the back of the adapter plate to allow the water to pass where it would as per standard datsun setup (albeit without the pump to push/pull it), sounds like simple idea.
I don't have my plate in front of me (its about 1500km away right now), but im sure its flat in that area.
edit : I have just taken snips of the 3d model using an online viewer - yep its flat there.

Robs original design has the port bolted straight out the middle, however the plate I have doesn't have this setup and is the image file you have Matt.

in the image you can just see the two adapters behind the crank pulley and the cam pulley


The other benefit of the external mechanical waterpump idea is that it provides a 3rd point for the v-belt to tighten against. I am planning on aircon and alternator, but a 3rd pulley in there somewhere would help keep it all tight.
My mazda crank pulley has two v-belt spaces, so I can run both with ease - but still that extra point will help tighten it all up properly.

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  adaptor plate front.PNG (57.93 KB)

I've worked it out on those two mystery parts.

the one in the centre with the keyway goes between the datsun cam and the mazda pulley to drive the oil pump/fuel pump

the simple tube thingo sits between the datsun crank and the mazda crank pulley to make it sit correctly.

Both are needed to make it all work as expected.

Those "auxiliary" water pumps for the VW - are they in addition or to replace to the standard mechanical pump on the VW?
They seem far too small to be a replacement unit - they look like aquarium pumps!

If you used several in the circuit to push / pull water in the correct path - say one at the output of the radiator, one at the back of the head.

Another thing to note about pulling water from the back of the head is that in every east-west application of the B6, the water is pulled from the back of the head. If you believe the mazda nuts, this was the intended design of the motor and the north-south setup in the MX5 was an afterthought.

Im pretty confidant that I can get the water out the back. I want to use the mazda cam timing mech as well and that pokes out the back too.

So you would put the datsun standard pump back in it original home and machine the adapter plate? Is that what you mean?

Im pretty sure that one of the idlers sits there - you could use the water pump in that idlers place to get around that problem

OK,

so i just found this

remote mount mechanical pumps

fancy pants...


still need to consider a bypass hose somewhere and heater pipes

Heater pipes sholld be able to be tapped off the back of the head.
Plenty of mazda options here - dependant on space behind the head.
here is one example of how you can get the heater pipes working, with that mazda head - heaps of others
mx5 thermostat spacer

The real issue with electric vs mechanical is flow rates at higher RPM. It seems from the reading i have done so far on the issue is that once you get to above 6000rpm +/- (dependant on the motor) he mechanical pumps outperform the electric units.
So in hi-po race cars at WOT for extended periods, or high boosted cars (say above 25psi), the electric pumps struggle to keep flows up to keep everything under control.

It seems that whilst electric pumps have a comparatively shorter lifespan than a mechanical pump, its not short enough to be a real issue. Some electric pumps are rated to 2500 hours minimum lifespan, which at that time its just new seals.
Given, certainly for my application, I'm not chasing 35psi, or building a track car, or anything crazy, so an electric should be fine, but....

Could you machine a plate to the back of a regular mechanical pump (to blank it off), fit a suction pipe to suck the water, and then remote mount like an alternator on the side. You would need universal hoses or cut up something else, but that would seem to meet both sides of the issue.
Mechanical pump for flow and lifespan, but removing it from the front of the engine, where space is a premium (at least in my application).

I could see that since the intake of the pump would be restricted, it might cut out any benefit from going to this effort to start with...

You could also then pick a pump that has good flows, or compact size, etc.
But again, getting the serpy belt to reroute becomes another challenge (if thats the path you want).
I'm planning to only use the serpy belt to drive the head.
Ill use v-belt for everything else.

I've got no real issue sharing the love about. It hasn't cost me much so far to get the drawings done from the plate I already have.

If you can get a easily obtainable mechanical water pump into the setup then that's a great idea, however, don't forget that the B6 suffers from heating issues with the front thermostat setup.
In absolute stock form that front water setup is fine, but if you plan to lean on the head in any way, a coolant reroute seems necessary.
The mazda nuts all reroute to the back of the head to force the water to pass over everything, ensuring that No4 gets sufficient water else it gets hot on its own back there.

I still plan to push water into the block at the stock datsun port and pull out at the back of the head - with an electric water pump mounted somewhere - not yet decided.

let me know if you need anything more - if you can get it right then thats a win all round!



On the parts listing, i am working on a "manual" for this, documenting where everything comes from and goes to.

I can send you what I have, but its far from complete or in any real order.

Quote:

like most dealers - they seem like good guys.....

I feel as though a proper thrashing on a postie bike will sort out that issue.

And D, you are right, ill get there. Hoping to have the bottom end together soonish. Just have a credit card to get under control first is all,and a clutch to buy before sending the whole lot to get balanced and assembled.

What are you using as template to make these up?

Do you have an original that you have copied or the original drawings from the original creator or is this your own design?

Are you going to make up kits with the necessary seals, cam & crank adapters, and pulleys?

I am still working through this project - hoping to put the motor together over the next few months.
I have collected everything (im pretty sure) and modified everything as required, so it should now be a bolt together operation.

The original creator put together kits for about $900 from memory, and people balked at that - dont know why - thats more than fair for what he was offering - but people are people.

Thanks D for that confirmation.

Yep its def an A14 sump. Once the sump is on the bottom end, ill see how much it hits - if at all (hopefully)