I used metric units and metric bolts to put in my new seats as opoosed to imperial.
Lets face it an inch is the length of three dry, round barley corns laid end to end, by pronouncement of King Edward II. What a scientific definition! No wonder why the mars probe did'nt work!

So big ups for metric :)

I knew that post would catch a few bites with you kooky MPH imperial thinkers!
Still it's better than getting any more state revenue ahem I mean speeding tickets
You know that a MacyD's quarter pounder only has 2/3's of a quarter pound of meat in it! a classic example of the imperial system letting us down!

I'll post some more pics tomorrow - they're on my email at work.
The dato has a A12 in it
I have a few kits from jaycar to go in this long w/e - electronics ignition and a digital tacho, then after running the ignition kit in (required) I have a programmable ignition kit to add to it that will control advance. The digital speedo kit looks good too as mine reads in MPH (unless anyone has a 1000 kph dash they dont want! - damn imperial measurements!)
Hmm I wonder if anyone in Perth is interested in a cruise for Anzac Day....
cheers

if you have the 4 spd one left over I'll take it - unless 1200's and 120y's have the same gearbox in which case I'll get one from there. not too fussed by an extra gear....

I just put some 1200 ute seats in my 1000 ute. Much more comfortable having a head rest. They sit a bit lower than the original 1000 seats which is good as I dont need to duck to see the speedo through the sports stearing wheel now.
I needed to cut some mild steel lengths to adapt the extra width of the seats to the rails but it's in now :)
Only thing is the drivers seat is further to the rhs which means my arm is closer to the door.
If anyone wants the old seats both seats need revamping but you're welcome to them.

I was just reading up some other pages on changing headgaskets and the common theme seems to be to lighly oil the cleaned - rust free bolts. - see for yourself by doing a google search- There are alot of newer engines which use TORX style headbolts which apparently do not require oiling for the first few uses - and are supposed to be more reliable; as long as you have the TORX bit for the torque wrench.

You know that's Odd because I just went by the tech section article which said:
"Clean the bolts and bolt holes
check when reassembling an A series is that the bolts holding the head down are lightly oiled."

Yep cheers Dodgeman,
Lubed bolts and cleaned it all first time and installed it COLD - just like the article, common sense, and both of the dato manuals direct.
guess I'll back each bolt off half a turn - would'nt want it too loose as it may shift the join between the head and block
FYI the wrapper doesnt say if retensioning is required that's why I asked........

After a bargain $17.99 AU at my local auto parts store I have found the part :)


If anyone wants to know so this post is actually useful the torque settings for ezy-fit head gaskets are:
A12,A14 - 40 first tighten,60 second tighten & 75 NM final torque

but unlike me you will probably keep the wrapper that has this info on it...

Great thanks ddgonzal! and the article was a great help when I changed it in november.

And the torque specs are all I need to retighten them.
The torque settings were also different from the ones quoted in the workshop manual (probably settings for paper gasket I imagine).
hmm maybe I'll call a few more parts shops - I already checked 2 but they did not have the part available so I could'nt get the torque setting.
unless someone outhere knows it......?
Cheers