Hey L18,
isn't it always the same before raceday (lol) . Good thing is - all the hard work behind the scenes makes for a slick raceday ! Nothing worse than having dramas at the track !!!!!! Hope all goes well for you and Datto
"Go hard - then go home !!!"
Cheers

We have CDW on the shelf because of that very import problem. Not so much Bond getting it all but because Blackwoods used to carry it and hold big stocks but no longer - hence one less distributor and same demand Anyway, let me know if u want more.
Cheers

L18,
How do you find the L series suited to racing ? Just starting my next car and have toyed with the idea of a L20 for 2 litre proddy but was originally going to go for the SR20. Thought maybe a few $$$ might be saved by picking up one of the motors that have had bulk $$ spent on them (that u never get back !!) which are the victim of an upgrade. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated
Cheers

Benny,
I have a business associate who builds cages in South West Sydney. Does a good job and will give advice if need be, builds chassis cars and a lot of Group N work. Is this for the track ?? (Hope so ) PM me if u need more.
Cheers

Hey guys,
anyone know of an SR20 or CA18 that is completely stuffed or bare block & head etc so that I can start on the next racecar ?? I don't want to start on the cage & front end etc without a good idea of the physical size and what sheetmetal changes are required before getting too serious. It's probably a big ask but the cheaper the better as it is only for set up and the $$$$ are not available to buy a good motor to look at for the next year or so . Any help is greatly appreciated !!!!!!!!
Cheers

1200 RC,
thanks for the info and I'll keep an eye on the bias . I haven't looked at my H190 yet but the H145 originally in the coupe had the double flare (concave) while the end of the flex from the bluebird caliper was concave also (requiring the single, convex flare). Don't know if it is an age disparity between the two but that's how it panned out. Shorter lines was due to the connection at the drum being right on the backing plate while the flex line from the disc caliper takes you a little further away if you mount them in line. You could , I suppose, just bend the line toward the incoming flex but the offside (short) line is quite stiff & may not want to play !! Anyhow, I had to re-flare and had the tool so just shortened each a little to mount " in line" No biggie either way I suppose. The H190 would be a slightly easier swap because they use the same bearing, axle length, and spline as bluebird but the H165 should be about (??) 90 - 100mm shorter than either of b/b or H190 so axles would be longer than the ute diff could accomodate methinks ?
Cheers

Yeah dd you're pretty close there ! I have just fitted bluebird rear discs to my coupe with a H145 diff. Not yet hit the track to test them out but the only challenges of note were :
Stupid Datsun idea of retaining axles with the brake backing plate means removal of bearings !! (Bluebird having longer axle means no swappy to 1200 housing)
Disc backing plates bolt straight up
Solid brake line over housing has to be shortened and changed to a single flare end - drum set up uses double flare.
Unless I am mistaken (I cringe at the possible wrath of the dattomasters) the restrictor has to be removed from the drum brake master to allow the necessary increase in line pressure.
USE 14" wheels or better !! I managed (after much searching and stress and cussing) to use 13" but probably out of the realm of any sane person .
Will post some pics soon and let you know how it went.
P.S. Used stanza struts and brakes so it is all a matched set so to speak.
Cheers

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Thanks dan - yeah it is a bit of a rarity to find one intact let alone works !!
Cheers