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wouldn;t that mean that the 02 sensor is rooted - as in, replace it?

GA16DE head with all inlet manifolds.

no dizzy - you run coilpacks with a fuel AND ignition computer.

use an electric oil pump. they're generally a priming pump and i will use them full time, but this will shorten their lifespan a bit. not really bothered as it's a thrash car.

you need to get the crank pulley and cam pulleys as well to run the timing belt arrangement. that setup is a bit tricky - you need to use the stock pulsar belt somehow.

the A block pushrod holes need welding and re-drilling on an angle to suit the oil drain holes in the GA16 head. also the GA16 head needs the same holes welded and drilled to match.

the water galleries also need some work (mainly filling and reworking).

all the head bolt holes line up (one you'll have to drill out an extra 1.5mm in

1200 utes fall into a different category of vehicle.

you can do more to a commercial based vehicle than you can a passenger based vehicle, even if they are basically one and the same.

the NA limit for a 1200 ute is 2250cc - ish, whereas a sedan / coupe is 1800cc-ish.

the kidney shaped head has better swirl / squish properties than an open chamber head.

we're using a kidney shaped head on our turbo project - there's a lot more power and torque to be had and less chance of detonation with good fuel.

i had my head under a 1980 hiace van today (dont ask why...) and they look VERY close to a 120Y width...

but looks can be deceiving

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can someone measure a 120Y diff for a direct comparison?

get rid of the box altogether and install a 12V hairdryer into your ducts.

they weigh about

sounds really strong - nice driving too...for a ute!!!

this is all very encouraging news.

Team_dat and i are building a turbo A12 at the moment - bog stock engine except for double valve springs and a wade 446 cam. i've re-tensioned the bottom end again for peace of mind

the turbo of choice is a TF035HM - the automatic forester GT turbos.

we're using 1