it's a tall engine, like an L20, so you'd ned either sump or crossmember mods.

but they go into 1600s just fine so i don't see why not.

definitely not.

E15 is a factory turbo motor - but an A12? hell no.

i think some of the nissan forklift motors (N20? H20?) come with some diesel turbo options though.

the 6cyl 4spds are better than the 4cyl 4spds in regards to ratios etc.

one out of a cedric would a cheap place to start.

electric AC compressors

there is a contact in AU for these

http://www.geocities.com/radiatorexpert/

nigels@cooldrive.com.au

you'll need 100AMP alternator to run them though.

electric AC compressors

you'll need a 100amp alternator to run it though.

cutting the firewall for hoses has nothing to do with engineer's certs. as long as it is sealed witha rubber grommet or similar to stop chafing and seal the cabin.

if they're not clutchdumping or transbraking at 6000rpm then dowelling is fine - like i said it's only under big load (like hard launches) that makes the rear rotor housing walk.

but we're WAY off topic so i'll leave it there.

to fit the renesis rotors you need to change the apex seals to the oldskool type with corner seals. just a bit of machining there.

dowelling is actually detrimental to a boosted rotor. there was a massive comparison on Ausrotary a few years ago and evryone who has had it done swears they will never do it again - a few people had them crack in exactly the same spot they did BEFORE they dowelled them.

it removes the original cast metal and basically you are "building in" a crack by sleeving it. poor engineering practise - like welding thick plate and not tapering the flange to be welded. you are "building in" a crack in between the two welds. same principle.

you should use the thick sump gasket for any performing motor that undergoes hard launches - boosted or not. load is load and a walking rear rotor housing = death regardless of whether there is a turbo off the side or not.

i haven't come across any 5spds at all - genuine anyways. your mate must be one lucky SOB pity he busted it!

EFI PPs - they're A LOT more tractable at lower RPM and less prone (but still very prone) to popping flames on deceleration. they still buck like a kangaroo at sub 3000rpm a mild load (cruising) but like i said, knock it back a gear and it all smooths out and your fuel efficiency goes up!

use carbon kevlar apex seals - you can get them from racing beat - they're a lot nicer on the engine than steel or ceramic seals, last longer than straight carbons and a lot less prone to breaking at high rpm. a fair amount of $$$ but worth it IMO.

i will be building one at a much later date - i have ex-mazda factory PP housings in my old man's shed just waiting for renesis rotors (a new pair from mazda and modded to suit an older 13B is about $400 cheaper than S5 rotors alone!) and a 55IDA TB.

if you want even more reliability at higher RPMs you can build a thin bridge over the inlet and exhaust ports to stop the apex seals banana-ing out at high rpm when they move across the port which causes breakages.

and skip dowelling - just build a sump "gasket" out of 12mm plate and use 8mm hitensile bolts to hold it in place instead of the factory 6mm used to hold the sump on.

dowelling removes even more metal from the area it's trying to stop from cracking in the first place.

ah sh1t - now you've got me started again...

12A turbo boxes were 95% auto and japan only.

finding one is harder than finding a manual soarer box. chances are the manual "12A turbo" box is an aussie spec 12A bellhousing with a last gen 13B RX5 5 speed bolted up.

would account for the "horrible shifting" as the 13B RX5 5spds ALWAYS jam in third under hard changes - ALWAYS. flat changes into second would end up with a nasty crunch as the synchros failed.

and cheers for the info there D. i'm not into falcons too much and like a lot of people i guess i have formed an opinion based on one model - sorry

and a "street PP" would be EFI which eliminates a lot of the jerking associated with big ports and cruising RPM. or you can use a 4spd behind it and drive with a 3speed + overdrive (ie keep it in 3rd).

Quote:

oh not again....

you can have bi-carb blasting done now too - will strip paint off a coke can without warping it.