it's always good to try something out like that and be wrapped with the result.

good stuff.

that's a great idea there. i hope something like that comes into production. an engine like that would take well to forced induction.

it's a pity that techonology like that is destined for hybrid vehicles....

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amen to that

from memory the 1600 crossmember will fit under a 1200 - they do it all the time in the US....

if you swapped the front crossmember for one of Datsport's "SR20 into 1600" crossmembers, then i think it would sit just fine. use stanza / 180B lower control arms, stanza struts and 120Y castor rods and the whole front end should come together nicely.

you need to make sure you run top quality oil in a rotor, and change your filters every 5000klms religiously. if you keep it under 3000rpm while it's cold, and don't take it past the designated rev-limit, then a rotor will see you into the 200-250thou range - just like any other engine.

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couldn't have put it better myself...

if you decide to do the rotor swap, you'll never look back.

i didn't...

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just to throw a spanner in the works, the NHRA have been working with the govt to introduce stricter rules for hotrod building, regarding repro. chassis and bodies, engine sizes and tyre widths.

the new rules are a max of 460ci engine capacity on all repro chassis pre 1935 (so you can't stick a 600cuber in a 22 t bucket) and over the 1935 cut off it's as per engineer's requirements.

min box section size for repro chassis pre 1935 is 100x50x3.0 for 1909 - 1931, and from 32-34 is 150x50x3.0 RHS.

max tyre width is the biggest that wil fit on a 10in rim, with a min of 75% the rear rim width on the front.

all vehicles must be free of all rust now too.

this is to stop the disturbingly popular "rat rod" cult, who like to build rusty ####ters with 5spd manuals, 15in tyres and 500cube monsters - all with drum brakes - and calling it legal coz it's "nostalgia".

for all your new rubbers, head to

Scotts Old Auto Rubber

if this guy doesn't have your rubbers, no-one will.

if you need taillights or anything, i have a spare set you can have for $AU50 the pair.

you'll probably get more info outof the guys at OZDAT in future though, this is a site dedicated to most things L series powered.

your 60 problem is fuel related. have your carby overhauled and it should run fine after that, but double check all of your ignition system, including timing. if it's not that, then it's clutch slippage.

the 180B is a 610.
the early bluebirds are 310, 410 and 510
the later, squarer bluebird / maxima is 910.
the 120Y is a B210 from memory...? can someone clarify?

re: those carb calcs.

one would be fine for an NA engine, but for forced induction you'll want something off an engine around double the size - hence why the 32/36s or a 2in SU works so well.