yeah sidedrafts are the go here - but for that money, turbocharge it (well, if you're buying new. second hand s'drafts might be another thing i guess).

i would anyways...!

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ah! okay, it wasn't exactly clear with what i was reading.

sorry...

on an A series, hell YES it can be done cheaper than pair of sidedrafts!

c'mon man! post some details!

you should be able to order longer studs from somewhere like repco etc.

the hole should be a touch bigger as to let the nut centralise the wheel hole to the stud and provide a dovetail face grip to the stud hole.

use the P610 (180B) crossmember. they're not half as collectable as the P510s.

you'll need

120Y/180B/stanza struts
180B crossmember
180B lower arms
120Y castor arms
i think 120Y swaybar
180B booster and master cylinder.

this should all just bolt together with an L series engine and situate it low enough in the engine bay to not have any bonnet clearance issues if you were to keep the 1200 crossmember.

good luck dude

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that's really interesting, i've also heard this but i took no notice of it. it certainly doesn't seem to apply in practise though - i still reckon a turbo A12 is a rockin' little engine.

anyone out there running a turbo A14 had any 'rod failures?

if the motor has already been rebuilt then i would say 10psi would wake the engine up considerably - you could possibly run more with careful tuning.

if you're trying to keep it on the cheap, ie a draw thru application, then i would keep 10psi your limit, with possibly ... and i hate to suggest it ... water injection. water / kero or water / metho would be a better bet, but still a bit archaic - certainly something EFI would fix.

but hey, they're strong little engines with a lot of scope for more power, so give it a shot. you learn more by experience in doing it yourself than you will reading about it huh?

you won't have to touch the firewall at all.

but yeas, you will need lots of rubber for traction!

top job. good to see someone playing around with the A12.

do you have any pics? is that it in your signature? what dizzy are you using?

wait a minute....

brass inserts are what you pay for when you convert your head from leaded to ULP - if you have them already (ala L series engines) then running ULP shouldn't be an issue.