gee you're good with that quote button...
and i'm still not going to give you the satisfaction of answering your question. you have turned this thread into "me! me! me!"...

rolling over now. again.

the 20B is the size of a 6gal drum, so making it fit is as easy as pie. it's actually not much longer than an A15 block - but the mounting points are all wrong. you should run with a 12A style timing cover, and use modified RX3/7 mounts to mount it over your swaybar as per most of Mazda's arrangements.

a ported NA 20B would see you filling up at every servo on the way to your destination. and of course, there's the rebuild cost.
you could make it carby, but then, you'd need to make all new manifolds to suit and then get the carbies on top of that.
the 20B has one of the best flowing inlet manifolds around, so why ditch it? hook up an LTX12 microtech onto all the std manifolds and injectors for $AU1395 and SAVE yourself money by going EFI.

the 20B doesn't need to be revved as hard to make the same power as a 13B, hence why they have the tag of being more reliable. but don't be fooled, the very early engines are known for eccentric shaft failure and rear rotor shifting. this problem was quickly rectified though, i think the problem engines were 1991 and early 92.

you could use a std FC3S RX7 5 speed behind a 20B with no turbos, with a good 13B clutch and flywheel and the 20B counterweight.

the sump might need mods though, although if it does foul, use a 180B / stanza crossmember and be done with it.

it's certainly a conversion i was considering, but trying to get a "4.0L" engine (mazda quotes it at 1998cc - so double that) engineered into a 1200 would see you on a mission from god.

but if it's not going to be street legal, then take it away. it's certainly not an overly complicated conversion.

good luck

R160s are pretty common still, but the R180s are a little thin on the ground. not many ratios available either, it's pretty much a 3.7:1 or 4.11:1 now. i'm sure they're out there, just needs a little time for looking.

as for the gearboxes, not too sure. sorry.

if your ute is 4 wheel drums, then the 120Y struts, discs and calipers would be a nice, simple upgrade - as would the booster and dual system master cylinder.

i'm not the guru on diffs, but i remember reading that the ute diff is the strongest of the lot - so no real upgrades in swapping to the 120Y one. maybe the gears are a better ratio though - might be worth swapping over for some highway economy if it's not a load carrier anymore and 'reclaim' first gear i'd check to see if they're compatible or not first.

if the seats are in good condition they might provide more comfort over what might be in your ute - or not.

other than that, i can't think of much else. you could always keep the engine and trans should anything go wrong.

then you could sell the shell to me if it's in good condition

someone's got a bit of temper...

i can't be bothered answering your questions because you will end up picking the sh1t out of it, just like you are doing now about a whole lotta nothing.

i can't be bothered explaining every infinite detail of my response to you when it is common sense to every one else reading it - sure, i may mis-word things but it's something that reading twice and taking it IN CONTEXT TO THE SUBJECT wouldn't fix. not taking a tageant and then taking it personally...just like you are doing now.

i may be a new member, but i have been reading datsun1200.com for years now, and i know the kind of sh1t stirrer you are.

no doubt you're getting a little angry now, so i'll stop before i say something nasty.

unlike yourself, i know when to let something go.

and don't call me mate.

you have been warned.

i really can't be bothered answering your questions, to be honest. if you want to take something i say onto the back foot then hey, go for it. it's a free country.

rolling over now...

yeah, there's plenty of TD04 variants! that 2.0L probably ran at 1500rpm all day everyday.

i'm specifically talking about the ones off the post '97 WRX though.

Quote:

look it up on their website smartarse.
it's there for all to see.
like i said for the now third time, the fuel hasn't been tested by the EPA therefore is illegal. it has an 'unknown' effect on the environment and exhaust emissions. i couldn't give a flying fu(k if you're interested in my response or not.

talk to your local dept of transport if you have anymore queries. i'm sick of having to reply to, and clarify, your useless dribble. and i'm sure everyone else that has any kind of opposing view to you is as well.

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turbocharging the A14 is a hoot. seriously, the WRX turbo is the one to use. if you want even more low down response, you could always fit a 'reducer' before the exhaust housing - a conical shaped piece that speeds up gas flow making it 'hit' the exhaust wheel harder.

turbo'd A series hang together well on most std parts, but as a minimum i'd say fit new rings and bearings and run no more than 10psi. you could go higher than this on std internals, but you'll need to change the pistons to at least something like hyper-eutectics and fit good rings.

damn that's a nice colour!
what's it called?
it looks like your prep work has paid off.

kudos

it's definitely fuel / tune related.
when you press the brake, the booster relies on manifold vaccum to work - your mixtures are probably borderline on stalling and actuating the booster makes it stall completely because it ever-so-slightly changes the inlet mixture.