i don't believe we have a spokeperson on here from the EPA. and i already gave you the answer as to why they are interested.

as for the rebuild, i gave him a nice combo for a powerful but still relatively mild, and inexpensive, engine build.

you can still turbo a stock A14, just a good idea to rebuild it with new rings and bearings before you do. common sense, not rocket science.

if it needs machining then it's extra over the rings and bearings. maybe that was a little unclear, my bad. but if it's in good condition and 'only' 100thou old then you should be fine.

and you know what i incinuated when i said you were hiding behind your keyboard, so don't play literal idiot games with me.

no, the 180B Team dat is buying is a series one, not a series two.

the series one has very thin struts (like 1200 almost) and the later has similar struts to the stanza - but not exactly.

if a lowering is required, chances are it will be 43mm lowered king springs that are required. i needed these in my 1200-stanza swap - and you can get them from wilkinsons in bayswater for i think $160ish a pair.

also Team dat, that 180B has a new rad in it (well...new-ish) so it should be up to the task if it fits.

yes, the E15 dizzy bolts onto the 1200 with minor mods. actually, i think it's in the technical section on this website...? pays to check i guess.

i always rebuild my engnies if you're chasing double the power. i mean, you can turbo or nitrous a 100,000klm old engine and get away with it, because you'll still have 60-100thou left in it. if you're trying to do this to a history unknown engine, then why risk it? seriously, a weekend and $400 later you have a resealed and re-bearinged A series engine. you may need machining, you may not. but a simple check is all you need.

hiding behind your keyboard again, phunkdoktaspok ?

where did i say a NOS engine has to built better than a turbo engine? are you dyslexic? they have to be built the same, after all, it IS a form of forced indution - and anything else that introduces extra oxygen into the chamber is exactly that.

extra oxygen = bigger bang
bigger bang = more stress
more stress = little bits of engine in sump.

WE know NOS reduces emissions, but the EPA haven't tested this fuel - and hence is illegal for street use. you can cop the same fine for running diesel in your corolla. i don't make the rules, i don't enforce the rules. i'm just stating what i've been told.

and who gives a #### why they're interested...? the fine is there, that's all the deterrant i need.

and i missed the south africa bit. sorry.

well of course it's cheaper than a turbo conversion, but you can't hose down that WRX from the local lights now, can you? hooking up NOS on the street is a big no-no, and will not only see you with a yellow sticker, you could also be liable for one of those nice, fat fines the EPA are so reknowned for giving out - like $10,000 worth.

if you do NOS an A series, you'll need to rebuild it anyways to take the extra stress it puts on the engine. if you're going to rebuild it, then put a turbo on it. if it's STILL not fast enough, then add NOS and wind the boost down a shade when you do.

in all seriousness, turbo'd A series are great engines. not as much torque as an L series, but the extra rev-ability and ease of extracting power with boost more than makes up for it.

if you're keeping it relatively mild, use a 25/68 cam pushing on better pushrods, bigger valves and a trick efi setup with something like 550cc injectors.

build the bottom end pretty much std with polished and linished (maybe even cryo-treated) rods and crank, with hyper-eutectic pistons and the tradtional overbore. use good rings and bearings.

use a TD04 turbo off the post 97 WRX as they have an undersized exhaust housing, perfect for about a 1.5L.

as for ignition, use the E15 elec dizzy, or better yet, programmable management with ignition control.

i would choose a delco to run this, however, a microtech will work fine if you pay someone to hook it all up instead.

you'll need a celica box to take all the grunt though, and then you're looking at a new diff.

good luck

enuff with the high beam sh1t already!

if you want a nice simple power up, a CA18DE and 5speed is a great power up. with a set of cams and individual throttles they're great little engines.

if you use a 180B front end under it you can utilise the engine mounts and crossmember which are spot on - and you could also adapt the larger stanza brakes with minimal fuss.

fitting IRS to a 1200/120Y would be a mission and a headache to the inexperienced. it would also weigh significantly more than a live axle setup.

where do you drive normally? gravel roads? i've always found a live axle rear end more 'predictable' on the hard stuff, as LSD / locked IRS tends to swing from +ve to -ve camber under braking / acceleration.

to put it lightly, unless you're doing the work yourself with an FC3s RX7 IRS setup, or R200, or whatever - you'll be paying thru the nose. you better have a good jig set up for the rear end too, and find compatible arms, driveshafts (okay, they can be shortened) etc etc.

i personally think your best bet would be to convert to a 2 link setup at the moment, and see if that stops your tramping and hopping. if not, then remove the rear leaves altogether, and utilise the existing spring hangers and fabricate a 4 link / coilover setup with a panhard rod.

in the end, this WILL be the cheaper option by about a third, with possibly the same - of not better - results.

long live the live axle.

you'll want to PM dattoman1000.

he works at perth brake parts and has adapted ford laser discs onto the 1000 stubs with no mods, and then made a bracket to mount the mazda 323 calipers. he has diagrams on his website and i reckon he'd be more than happy to help.

it changes the m-something-cite into s-somthing-cite - if you understand that.

when metal is cast, there are tiny bits of cocky #### in it (you know, the #### you have to chip off your fresh welds before painting).

anyways, cryogenics re-aligns the grains in this very fragile metal, and it becomes 4x as strong, actually changing into another form of fragile metal.

either way, the metal as a whole doubles in strength roughly, but the little bits of cocky #### in the casting have quadrupled in strength, and actually 'bonds' itself to the supreior metal around it during the compression process involved in cryogenics.

and to those who say it doesn't work - pull your head out of your ar5e.

i'd say use early 120Y headers - they're the best header out there.

moving to extractors might gain you 5kW or whatever up top, but low rpm driving will suffer - something a 1000 needs really bad.

how's those turbo plans coming along? or is this for your other 1000?