a T5? yukky poos

horrible ratios - definitely not a rotor box dude! designed for reducing fuel usage on a 4.0L sixpot, not getting the most out of a free revving rotor.

you'd be better off with a toyota box - and i'm no fan of them behind rotors either.

you can box out a 32/36 - apparently they work well. i'd steer clear of a charade carby - designed for economy not power.

or a small 180 edelbrock or something i guess could be made to work.

some of the alfa blokes have a lot of luck with blow thru DCOE style dellortos...?

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you need to machine the counterweights down to make it all fit - but yes, same bearing spacing i;m led to believe.

i did a ton of research on this before i went with a turbo L18 instead.

most people don;t put the L20B head on the Z24 because class regs stipulate orginal block and head.

that said, i rememebr Baz saying something about a worked L20B being quicker than the 2.4L...

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use 1200 springs in the 120Y strut.

there's quite a number of historic pics on this site, in photo albums and been posted.

i'm sure a search will turn up a bucketful.

this is getting really old now.

1 7/8in off the headers merging into a single 1 7/8in single exhaust.

dodgy dodgy dodgy.

the fines for re-birthing a car (which also mean changing engine numbers) are going to be $20,000 soon.

and if you crash and kill someone, they'll pick apart your car and find it is NOT a CA16, but a CA20. then you lose your third party personal insurance and have to

a) go to prison
b) pay for someone's medical expenses for the rest of their waking life if they DO survive and
c) live with the knowledge that if you had just settled for a few hp less you wouldn't be in this mess you call daily life now.

so, why not start with a CA16 block and fit a CA18 crank?

sounds to ME like someone has reversed the WHOLE leaf setup to get the arse end to sit lower - like that dodgy 120Y setup some yutz posted a while back.

lol sounds like something the gemini owners would do...