they 'seem' to be a crossflow L20, but i don't think they're as good. similar to camparing a CA20 to an L20, sure there's similarities, and a little bit more power, but they're a very disappointing engine to drive comparitively.

please note this isn't my experience, just what i've heard from people who have done the conversion.

CT9 turbo - $450
MT4 microtech - $795
modded inlet manifold for injector bosses - $150
electric dizzy - $50
s/h injectors - $50
ebay intercooler - ?
associated plumbing - $150
fuel system - make it yourself for $200 incl. pumps.

keep the headers and run a pipe from the base up to the turbo. saves HEAPS of money.
use the std inlet manifold with no plenum.

this is the best bang for buck combo i've come across for the A series engine. sure, it's a bit more than the cams/carbs/compression route, but you can still add a cam to this combo, then go nuts with a high CR, low boost application.

my $1.95 with fries anyways....

i have been following this project with great interest, it's great to see it so close.

personally, i would have gone with injection, however, horses for courses and i'm sure you have your reasons and it's a great build nonetheless.

kudos for sticking out the twin turbo idea

i know of one here in perth, it's white and an old bloke drives it.

they look pretty fkn good.

either way, i still want a 120Y sedan one day. just for the A engine i want to build....!

true, they are dogs.
i would rather build a turbo A15 with quad throttles and a celica box than do an RB20 conversion.

but that's me.

if you want an RB20DE, then do it. it might not be the best option available, but it's different.

and that's what matters.

there's info on this in the "engines into 1200" section of this website.

however, it doesn't seem to cover all of it.

1) you'll need a 180B crossmember, engine mounts and master cylinder.
2) try and get the control arms and swaybar too.
3) you'll want to upgrade to stanza struts and discs with 200B calipers while you're at it. the springs, from memory, need lowering by 43mm exactly to get them back to std ride height. if you want to go lower, short stroke KONIs are about $400odd a pair for the front. try and adapt the 180B swaybar top the stanza struts. if it doesn't fit, use the 120Y one. i can't remember if i bought it and it did fit, or if it didn't....
4) use the 120Y castor arms. they're shorter than 1200 ones and should fit perfectly.
5) gearbox will be fine in the tunnel. you MAY need a custom gearbox adaptor plate, depending on what gearbox you use.
6) tailshaft will need to have the front yoke changed.
7) be nice with the clutch, or you'll snap the diff like a toothpick.

this is the EASIEST and honestly the CHEAPEST way to fit an L series engine into a 120Y or 1200. not sure on bonnet clearance though with the L20B, but i know the L16/L18 are an easy fit with the 180B crossmember.

i have seen people use a stanza crossmember, but i haven't done it personally so i won't comment on that.

*EDIT* yes it all should bolt up perfectly, and your front track will be increased by about 15mm on each side. no neg camber unfortunately...

when was it stolen?
i'll keep an eye out for one up my way, i'm pretty central to the beach and shops so if it's gonna pass someone, it'll be me.....and i drive a nice, big, undentable tank for a daily so i have no probs following them home....

and who here suggested torture? i think that's a bit lame. i mean, surely concrete shoes in the middle of a rhino cage at the zoo would be a better option.....? that way we can all sit back with popcorn and beers and watch the matinee...

bingo.

all datsun engines, bar the J series engines and previous (J13 and J15 are seen the the P310, P410 and 1500 utes) can run on ULP with no probs at all, except be nice to the world you live in and fit a catalytic convertor if you do.

i think the bigger question is, what CAN'T you do...!
a RWD chassis that weighs a shade over 750kgs is open to many possibilities.

1) big brakes. all on stanza struts, but i have seen VL discs used on 120Y struts.
2) diffs. anything. honestly......anything.
3) engine. take your pick. rotary, SR20, CA18, VG20, VG30, rover V8, 4VEU 3.4L toyota V8, 3.8L buick V6....
4) interior. limited to the size of your wallet.
5) suspension. coil overs, 4 link rear ends, lowering blocks, stanza struts, adj. strut tops etc etc.

how fast do you want to spend?

i would LOVE to stuff some olskool 13x8 deep dishes under arse end, with 13x7 up front. flares are obviously required, but geez it would look tuff.