i say

- disc brake front end, 120Y struts and castor arms are a bolt in fit, and use the dual system 180B master cylinder.

- 14in RX4 steelies, painted black.

- DUMP THE BITCH INTO THE WEEDS

- one 45DCOE weber, 30/70 cam and a good exhaust. use pre-pollution 120Y headers.

- celica 5spd gearbox.

- oh, and the nice paint bit. that always helps. like that new commodore red.

all up, incl a good paint job, i reckon you could get away with a $5k build.

who said the ex-ET pulsar T2 was a good turbo? you need your head read dude! ####ty little things they are - although they are great for a sinker when i go deep sea fishing.

use a CT9 out of the turbo'd toyota starlet. Grant at Per4Manz turbos in Welshpool WA is selling them brand new for $450. they're internally wastegated and the compressor covers and compressor wheels can be changed for the early MR2 CT20.

manifolds aren't hard to make, just make sure there's no stupid restrictions or 180deg bends in them and it'll flow fine. something like a 13B turbo throttle body or an EA falcon throttle body would do the job cheap and do the job well. even if you can't weld, just tack the pieces in position and get a workshop to weld it properly for you.

people that say can't should be avoided at all costs.

i only use CAT blue gasket compound, never any of this repco budget gasket kit sh1t.

CAT use the stuff for replacement head gaskets (instead of the gasket) on their turbo diesel V16 power generators.

if it's good enuf for that, it's good enuf for an inlet manifold gasket / carb gasket etc.

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he only has to measure it up. if it aint gonna fit, it aint gonna fit.

but don't discount it until you've measured it.

plastic bumpers belong on plastic cars.

chrome bumpers belong on metal cars.

word.

that's a nice negative attitude to have....

anything will fit if
1) you are willing to relocate thigs like radiator, battery etc
2) you have an accurate tape measure, and are willing to use it a cupla times before you start and
3) have the vision to see it through.

i say you'll need to relocate the radiator forward into the nosecone a fair bit, maybe even use something thinner like a silvia single core radiator and use a big 16in thermo.

it may be a bit too high though - so a scoop might be a mandatory thing, and a lot of the weight will be well over the front wheels which will affect handling. however, if it's just a daily with a bit more poke or a drag bitch then it'll be fine.

i think the biggest issue will be sump position and transmission tunnel height at the firewall - but as i mentioned, a tape measure will remove all questions.

i say go for it.

okay.
number one. fu(k the coolness factor. do what you want to do and see it through. (hey! that rhymes....) that is what get's cred. don't worry about if it's cool or not.
number two. what happened to the 13B idea?

http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=30417

check this one out for sleeper value.

or a draw thru supercharger setup....that will always be 'fun'

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i would have thought that

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would let you assume that he was in america/puerto rico/canada...?