an L18 in a 1200 ute will HAMMER.

add twin SUs (a factory option), a mild cam, early 180B factory headers with a 2in exhaust and you will be seeing traffic behind you thru your side window if you get my drift (oh god, that's _such_ a bad pun...)

L18s rock - i much prefer them over L20s coz they rev so much better.

sounds like a miss to me too.

some engines do this - technically it should be okay free-revving and holding steady, but generally i have found that (A12s especially) don't like being held at 5000rpm with no load.

let the clutch out though, and the miss disappears.

it could be dizzy float, it could be backlash in the dizzy gears, it could be your points - geezus there's a million things it could be. it could even be as simple as your coil is breaking down or a lead shorting on the rocker cover.

engines aren't designed to be free-revved so chances are they won't like it. rev it to 5000 in first and hold it there and see if it smooths out. if not, then check for problems.

225 in an RS liberty out two rocks way, ran out of road but it was still pulling.

powerpoles look like fence pickets at that speed.

i'll take these two thanks. put it on my card...

you'll be surprised by the kinds of gains that can be had by removing steps in the inlet path

and yeah, it's amazing how much sh1te those socks let thru if not oiled properly! i saw the inlet ports on an L series head that was mirror polished before the webers and socks went on, and when he took the webers off to go turbo and slot the engine into his street car they looked like they had been sandblasted (it was a rally car, so saw lots of dirt action)... had to get the bores re-honed too.

anyways, keep me posted coz i'm very interested in your project.

i think it ignites secondary spark JUST after the primary spark - the dizzy cap seems to be set up 1-1-3-3-4-4-2-2

not in the way most would think being 1-3-4-2-1-3-4-2.

i don't see it making a huge difference, but then nissan did invest huge wads of cash in the Z18 so maybe....ah, i dunno.

anyways, kudos for doing something different and proving that it can go together.

now to make it run. i can see it wroking, but i can also see it being a bit of a fizzer.

anyways, good luck.

i don't know of any adjustable FPRs at wreckers - your best bet is to visit VPW's website and order a Malpassi 1.7:1 or so - these guys are tops and i have bought heaps off them at always the best prices.

re: boost issues - maybe your wastegate actuator is shagged the same way distributor vacuum advance mechanisms shag themselves sometimes.

i hope you welded some crush tube inside the RHS where your bolts run thru or you may find they'll pull thru in a hard accident - and trust me, wide washers fold real easy when RHS splits around mount holes...

bi carb is great - but you need elbow grease to get the best out of metal using bi-carb.

put a lump on the end of an old sponge and rub like crazy - it buffs up pretty nice.

you can get an even finer finish by using toothpaste first, then bi carb.

or go buy a dremel and polishing compound...

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awesome....!

if your budget extends to it, you could run an 88mm bore and use a Z24 crank for a 2.25L stroker...