Ok, I'm still having issues with getting the tacho to work

In the end I decided to run new wires to save any confusion.

The non loop wires fron the back of the tacho I connected to the lugs on the back of the speedo and the loop wires (BW) I connected to the ignition (BW) and to the coil.

Does it go directly to the coil or should it go to the balast resistor?

Help anyone!

Hi all,

I'm in need of a little bit of help!

I was trying to install a coupe tacho into my 84 ute on the weekend (replacing the standard clock) and I came across a problem when I started looking for the wiring.

I have printed off all the previous threads on this topic so I knew I had to look for the black wire with the white tracer that is taped up in the harness and all you have to do is unplug them and plug the tacho in! Pretty simple one would think...not so!

I found the B&W wire taped up to the harness but there was only a female end there, no male in sight. Not only that but it seems that Datsun/Nissan decided to change all of the connectors in the later cars to round ones instead of flat spade type which isn't a real issue just annoying.

My issue is not knowing what wire to put where, do I plug the male connector from the tacho into the existing connector and run a new wire for the other (where do I run it to)? I know it has to be a loop arrangement so I thought having an open end to the B&W wire sitting there would have been an issue but obviously not.

Has anyone else come across this problem with one of the later utes? If so how did you fix it?

Any help/advice appreciated.

Thanks

I'll be there but not in the ute, it will be interesting to see the GTR.

Harry, Did they tell you that it is the short track only this weekend?

Long track is on the 4th Dec & cost is a little higher.

Just thought I would let you know in case you went there thinking you were doing the long track.

PM sent

L18,

Do you know who can pump the guards in Bris?

I have the same problem with the stanza struts and it only needs to come out a little.

Tyre places have a mobile guy that does it for them but you have to go through them and I would like to deal with the person doing it direct.

I was quoted $50 per side.

I would consider myself a regular

I did try that but it didn't seem to make any difference. There is also a vacuum motor/diaphragm thing on the carby that looks like it should be hooked up but it got to the point of not knowing what should & shouldn't be hooked up.

I have since heard back from the auto elec and it looks like it has been repaired. I'll put it all together and see how it goes.

Thanks for everyones suggestions & help.

Ok, a bit of an update.

I have tried various forms of by-passing and nothing has made much of a difference.

So I went to a place where I thought I might get something aftermarket and had no luck! They suggested trying Nissan as they should have something like that for sure.

Now I spoke to Nissan a few days before and they said as far as any of their documentation goes, that part does not exist on the car and they couldn't help me So this time I went in with the car to see if the story would changed. Eventually they found it in one of their little books.

He typed the little number into their computer and he said that will be $186 but don't worry they aren't available anymore

So, this part is apparently a temp sensor for a vacuum advance solenoid and by the look of the markings on it, ot is triggered at one temp and off at another.

It is specific to Australian vehicles only and is also on post 1978 120Y's.

I have looked/rung quite a few wreckers in Brissy and have had no luck

It is at the auto elec now but he said he may not be able to fix it.

Does anyone have one of these lying around that they don't want?

Does anyone in Brissy no of a wrecker that has either 1200's or post 78 120y's?

Help!!!!

Part of the problem is that I have a repair manual but it is only for the earlier models and I haven't seen one for a Ute yet alone an '84 Ute.

Do they have wiring diagrams in the glove box user manual? I know there was one in the back of the user manual for my 260Z when I had it and that was a '76. I'll have a look at the Ute one tonight.

Thanks for everyones help so far.

The problem is that it is running like a pig. It is really gutless and then it has a surge after half throttle. Accelerate out of a corner and it dies momentarily, no smooth delivery of power.

On the way to the exhaust place it was running the best it has ever run (maybe it knew something was up) I had just given it a bit of a tune, new points etc. Then when I pick it up it is running really bad. The only difference is the extractors and the wire that is off the "switch" it the front of the block. I didn't think the extractors would have such a large effect on the car, I was expecting a change but a change for the better. Hence my quest for knowledge.

I have had extractors put on other cars (EFI admittingly) and they just ran better.

I had a simmilar issue before I check the timing and when I adjusted it the problem went away (pre extractors). I have since checked the timing and the dwell and they are spot on. This also made me ask about upping the timing a bit but I didn't think extractors would mean having to change the timing.