Hey Guys,

Just looking for clarification on this, the wiki says to use "120Y castor rods", so I went down to a wrecker who had a '74 120Y coupe & the bolt spacing on the rods appeared to be the same as the drum brake 1200 - not what I needed at all.

Do I need Castor rods out of a specific year range of 120Y?

I "think" I read somewhere on here (can't find it now of course) that the ball joint & lower control arm bolt spacing (and hence, castor/radius rod spacing) changed somewhere in the '74-'78 lifetime of the 120Y.

I'd like to confirm the year of the change, for one thing to help me find the right parts & secondly to update the wiki to make other people's lives easier later on.

Any help appreciated

Cheers
Ash

you could try this mob, I just got windscreen seals for my sedan from them. --> http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/

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Is that coupes? cause both my '73 shells have rectangle MPH speedos. (though both shells were originally auto so maybe that plays a part in it?)

I know that's an option, I was asking if there was any alternatives - like if someone on here has made up some decals or if a retailer sells them

Hey guys,

as part of my 1/2 arsed resto on my 1200 sedan, I'm fitting a coupe factory tacho instrument cluster - but being in Australia I'd prefer a KM/H speedo.

Short of doing a 1/2 arsed job of it myself, or buying a 76-85 ute cluster & mixing/matching them together - do I have any options other than learning the MPH equivalents?

Yes I know I can put a sticker somewhere with the conversions, but that would kinda ruin the look of a rebuilt clean car

Cheers
Ash

oh dear, the vans are VB? Green death!

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I've heard GTR ones are the go, or a cheaper alternative is VR4 galant 450CC/Min low impedance injectors

VR4s use a resistor pack to have the ECU see them as high impedance. I put high impedance 550's out of a 13BT into my old VR4 & bypassed the resistors, so I assume you could do similar for a CA18 ECU? Tho if they are low impedance they would be direct swap IIRC

probably easier to cast without needing machining aftewwards (or less machining) so cheaper.

Lots of the old skool V8s have square ports hey (I think on the intake tho?), it ain't just datsun - its bound to be cause of cost savings

ahh, alright that helps.

problem is my loom isn't in a very sound condition & 1/2 of this stuff is just outright missing....

I'll see what the loom from the stripped shell is like, IIRC it was flawless on the engine bay side & had the regulator.....

Cheers for the help

Hey Guys,

My parts 1200 has an A14 in it that I'm planning to swap into my good shell once it's painted, but the loom in the parts car is very molested to put it politely & the alternator isn't hooked up.

I've been reading the techincal Wiki, my Gregorys 120Y manual etc & I'm still confused as.

The Hitachi alt on the engine (not sure of model, can't find one on it) has the obvious 12V & earth points (labeled "A" & "E" respectively) and the T shaped plug is labeled "F" & "N", which is what the stock 1200 ones would have on it AFAIK?

Can't see anything like the external voltage regulator pictured on the site/in my book - nor can I see provision for one in my loom anywhere.

How do I tell what the hell I have guys?

Then, how do I wire it?

Any help appreciated.

Cheers
Ash