thanks chris :)

the sharks are now on sikynes race beast, he had dibs on them from the moment i bought them :) they were 13 x 7 -2 (i think) toight fit but really topped the car off.

The megasquirt is a great piece of gear, mine senses rpm from a sensor mounted on the crank pulley. the pulley has teeth machined into it. to make it sequential injection it requires a second signal from something like a trigger wheel on the dizzy.

Id really love to sell it to someone who can continue to play around with it, it really is a tough rare and unique cruiser!

its a sad day but too many projects and other priorities mean its time to go :( Ive owned it for a number of years now and has been a reliable little daily and then a great platform for my efi project. The car is currently registered until June this year but is a perfect candidate for the new 90 days unrestricted club permit scheme.


1968 vb10 1000 wagon deluxe model

Triple cored recod datsun 1000 radiator

megasquirt 2 ECU

sequential ignition running individual coils and a CA18det igniter

Fuel injected using mikuni throttle bodies off a 07 gsxr

Custom manifold port matched alloy manifold to a gx head with gradual taper from tb to head

Custom 4-2-1 stainless extractors 1 1/4 primaries 1 3/4 secondaries 2 inch system made for torque and streetability

Fully rebuilt A15 motor new bearings rings full gasket set (good quality) recod head (80 thou shaved) done under 500kms

Front disk conversion sigma GE disks new dual master cylinder and new lines. front runs braided speedflow (not cheap #OOPS#e) -3 lines. rear new shoes and machined drums

Body is in great condition for its age, but not perfect. is a fantastic candidate for a sweet resto as all the hard to get bits are there or keep as is for that old datsun class. Ive spent stupid amounts of money on this thing but im realistic and think what im asking is fair. I have bought a new house that has no garage, have a 1600 that is heavily modified already and am heading overseas to work for a year. Id love to see it go to someone who is going to keep going with it.

It is the best condition original 1000 i have come accross, i paid nearly 2 grand for the car with a blown motor and no brakes! Its fair to say there is nothing like it!


asking $5,500

pics to come - there are plenty in my project thread. does not come with star sharks comes with steel 13 inch wheels and datsun 1600 hub caps

walk around video

fair point, it;d pay to read threads like this

temp rating for a1rm is 780 i think bendix is somewhere around 500?

a good pad and fluid combo is essential (i use lucas rbf600)

i have cooked my fluid at sandown which cosequently burst the rear cylinders which left me with 0 brakes at the end of the back straight!

crazy theories floating around here! things get hot when you race and the first things you'll find will fail are brakes and tyres, i think people are underestimating how hard your car is working on a track. The sprint sessions are standard warm up lap, 3 timed laps and a cool down. so... yes you should really upgrade pads and fluid if doing this sort of stuff.

ds2500 pads are great, i have used them before. bendix ultimate in comparison to others mentioned here really are average, as are ebc green stuff.

for the money id be going for the A1RMs (about $120 odd a set!) i got mine from GSL rally sport in qld. give them a buzz and ask him questions hes very helpful.

people who have tracked their car seem to be pointing you in the right direction... ;)

For a proper race pad that is cheap i run QFM brand A1RM compund. same as race brakes pads but cheaper. great on the street work well from cold have a great high temp rating and work great on the track twice as good as bendix ultimate and they are cheaper!

na steampipe is for turbo's if its extractors then mandrel bends are the way to go. those ebay ones look pretty cheap.

velcro tyres and a big velcro circle ramp?...

definately sounds awesome! how can it be for standard vehicles, it includes hot rods and replicas?

Hi mate, na they're not the ones. Mine have two cone shaped bushes one for each side. i think i have managed to track some down thanks to my mate mopar :)

Getting the wagon finished up and ready for sale, i need the rubber shock bushes that go in the bottom mounting of the shock to the diff. they are tapered bushes, may well be the same as 1200? second hand is fine - i just lost mine when i pulled them out when i did the brakes :(