I eventually bought maddat castor rods. After modding and breaking lots of modified and larger ones.

Maddat ones are awesome and huge. Only thing i could pick is they dont have a lock nut on the back, and that nut provided comes loose. I got extra nuts the second time (for my other car) so i could lock them against each other.

Im still using stock strut tops. I would like to go adjustable tops as we had trouble matching camber on the last alignment. Im not sure what the most robust option is for that but i'd like to hear your solutio

Until you go custom stuff with all the specs revealed your pretty much guessing. Stiffer than stock springs are definately good but even stock 200b would be stiffer. And good condition shocks are a must, i never spend big, just get the most out of whatever is the best available from a stock part that is cheap enough

Extra castor is also the best thing you can do besides new shocks

But if it isnt steering too well with the front wheels just steer it with the other end!

I'm picking the shut off flap in the secondary throat of the carby isnt closing properly (the that flaps open with air flow and juat has a swinging weight to close it over, it sits below the throttle butterfly) allowing additional air flow with minimal fuel drawn into it through there. Explains high idle and lean running on. You have proabbly tuned around it for the most part but still seeing the symptoms you describe would be expected in this situation

Yep... thats the exact reason people use them

Daily or Franken engine. ... choose one

Going over the top and throwing fists full of money at a daily really kills the joy

Build a cheap and cheerful datto with the stock internal a15 and some nice bolt ons and live the dream of a daily datto that's as quick as a modern 6cyl.

Or build a Franken engine and have a high maintenance weekender that's probably a little faster than a 6cyl at full revs and a pig in traffic

To me the a15 in a 1200 needs to be considered like a v8. It's a torque monster compared to the a12. You shift way earlier and it pulls in the next gear beautifully. This makes an awesome street driving experience, compared to ringing the neck off an a12 to 7000rpm to keep up with traffic. Don't do mods that will kill the bottom end torque of the a15. Just free up the higher rpm a bit so you can run out the gears a bit stronger.

That's my experience anyway. I have had just about every combo you can imagine on road and race. Come round and drive my a15 coupe if you like.

I wouldn't get too excited about the cam and getting gx specs. Just go for a mild cam from one of the usual mobs if it's gonna be cheaper.

Get your carburation, exhaust and an elec dizzy well sorted and your gonna have a fun Streeter. If you go an overdrive gearbox you can also afford to go for a better diff ratio

I think a gx head wouldn't be necessary if ya have an oval port head anyway

You will probably need bluebird or vanette axles to avoid the issue above as they start longer... They are thicker through the section you will need to cut a new spline. Also be vary wary of brake to chassis clearance.. I had issues with bluebird disc's and skyline calipers after shortening and had to reposition calipers to avoid them hitting the chassis.

There may not be a drama. But do lots and lots of measurement so to check because it's generally gonna cost ya $1500-2000

Totally stock T50 has done many seasons in my rally car. A14 with some good mods but not massive power.

I collected 3 spare and never touched em

Stock ratios seem really good but we are using 4.9 diff ratio

Im interested as to why you would need close ratio? I think you mainly do track work (only use 3rd gear and above)? Or do you do motorkhanas as well?

I also had T50 behind A15ETT and never had a gearbox issue. I did a handfull of autocross (dirt surface) in that and general street work.

Its certainly been the robust option for me.

Early days in thr rally car we killed thr already abused 56 series 4 speed in it and replaced that with a 60 series 4 speed we had rebuilt. That seemed gteat but 2 events later the T50 5 speed come up so we put that in.

you will probably be fine... but generally it's good practice to avoid Lilydale for fear of road side inspections

a member on here did it years ago, i cant remmeber the name, but its possible and there should be plenty of pics on this site

ca18det is easily engineerable, depending on what state your in as to how much that might cost - VIC $850