"tell him his dreaming"

seam welding, what is the basic theory behind it?, are the benefits really obvious?, is it worth the cash?, and roughly how much does it cost? thanks

im looking at getting one myself for rallying and im really starting to think that going with a "cheap and nasty" option could prove to be a BIG mistake, i really think its worth hanging out and saving a bit of cash up for a serious one and if nothing else reaping the benefits of a stiffer body from a handling point of view

is there any negative effects caused by the clamping together of the leaf springs in order to put in the rear sway bar as i thought the leafs would require to slide over one another, any thoughts appreciated.
(installation as per competiition suspension download on this site)

you have to cut mounts off standard diff and weld to ute diff in a diffrent place to make it fit in a sedan or coupe. i think i was told the ute has same number of leaves but are a little stiffer than others. i cant remember what the C20 rear is at the moment, sorry. but i will tell you that you can get 4.875 and 4.11 ratios for the ute diff (H165) straight out of nissan vanettes. vanettes with A-12 have 4.875, ones with A-15 have 4.11. being a young bloke not earning much, i get most of my tax money back so I pretty much can say the government is sponsering me a roll cage or should i say the other tax-payers

check this site for a couple of happy snaps of others.

http://www.falcongt.com.au/HP.html

make sure to click on the XC cobra pic

like crocadile dundee said "thats not a knife (car), thats a knife (car)"

yeah maybe it is overkil, guy at an auto shop told me to set pressure regulator on 3 kpa or mpa? whateverer the units are. he said i dont need a return and he knew one of the pumps can push upto 5 kpa or mpa so ill be keeping one as a spare. he also told me one pump new costs $200 i got two for $45 . not too keen on the comment about rally cars being not on full throttle 90% time. i reckon it would be bloody close to 90% and always right on redline. theres no time to back off thats for sure. when you are hitting the brakes youre still reving the car quite high with engine braking aswell. anyway thanks guys for ya 2 cents

i used 20W-50 engine oil in my struts, works real nice, very stiff. i know the amount was 250ml but that was for stanza struts. just poor whatever comes out into a bucket mark it off fill it with new stuff and pour back in. thats what i did at the time just to be told the exact amount a week later, typical huh. even better still stop piss farting around and just get stanza struts, best low cost increase to handling know to man.

master-cylinder from an urvan is the biggest bore if thats what ya going for, if ya make up an adaption plate it will go on a sunny booster nice

any other tips guys? surely heaps of you guys have done it? or dont you run a line back?