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Convertible with removable hard roof is original Hardtop. Logically in this design there are no B-pillars and windows are also without frames. It was noone but Americans who started to call B-pillarless cars as hardtops.

Anyvway in here it's real chassis type name for Datsuns. As it read in registeration card as model name: 2d Sedan-120Y PL210 vs 2d Hardtop 180B SSS and 2d Hardtop-240K GT

180B come with L18, there's also version called 160B which come with L16. LHD-version model is PL610 and lovely hardtop version KPL610. I've got couple of those Hardtops( actually I have keep them all), two of them SSS versions. RHD vesions miss that L from their model name. That p represents L-series 4-cyl engine(L-engined 1200 is PB110). There's also 6-cylinder models, G610 KG610 called Bluebird-U 2000GT which has longer nose to make room for longer engine and keeping 50/50 weight ratio. 810 models with sixes were sold is US under Maxima name, though. That G represents L-series 6-cylinder as my C110 Skyline 240K-GT hardtop is KHLGC110.

Nissan mixes and matches their parts hardly in 70's, most models can have any engine from factory, for sixes noses are little longer and most middle-size models can also have either IRS or rigid rear axle.

And yes I love Datsun J-edged design, especially Hardtops.

With my real hot L18 with 300 degree @0.05" and .65 total valvelift cam which with 45mm webers & 36 chokes starts make real power from about 6500rpm idles quite nicely at 1000 rpm and runs very smoothly 1000-3000rpm but only with about 35 degree ignition advance. Any less and that engine dies when you hit the gas pedal. Actually best results come with 40 degree advance at 2000rpm, but that engine starts to ping at 6500rpm when it goes to power zone, so wihout computer based ignition max advance have to limit to about 35deg, with 25 deg initial advance and all mechanical advance coming before 2000rpm.

Also with wild cam that vacuum advancer have to removed as it's usually makes ignition unstable at low rpm when accelerating, resulting engine stuttering and poor running.

That L18 of mine won't produce much power under 4000rpm, it feels like having A10 under the hood and it also dies if push gas pedal too much at low rpms, but it still runs very fine, no problems at all with cruising in town at 1500-2500 rpm.

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Do you mean propeller shaft centre bearing? With 2-piece drivesaft there's rubber insulated bearing about middle of it which connects the shaft to car body, without that 2-piece driveshaft would be out of control.

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I'll try H190 when I get one to my hands. Now I use H165 from model 710 160J, it's few inches wider than stock H145. but it's just good as that stock axle is way too narrow.

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No I mean that B310 has four-link H145 as standard and it can be swapped straight to four-link H165. With B210 four link needs custom made mountings and it's quite big job to do, I'll considering to make just Shelby rods to prevent wishbones benting. Those Shelby rods are just rods from spring front mounting to axle, you might call it poor man's four-link, there's good picture of them in 1200 competition suspension and they call them as traction bars.

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It's the thing which supplies oil from oil pan to oil pump.

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Yes.

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Those are pretty fine, you only need fuel return line if you want to use fuel-injection or be sure that gas won't boil.

You also have to cut radiator frame to get enough room for radiator, I used Stanza (a10) radiator as hoses are just opposite way in original radiator, and that L-series engine also makes quite a bit more heat than A-series. 180B radiator is little bit too tall and need some extra modifications if used.

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Anything can be used, but for B210 it is much easier to use 610/710/810 crossmember as they bolt straight in. I think that 910 crossmember can be used as well, and with that you also get rack & pinion streering.

That Stanza x-member is just like B310 120Y's original with L-series engine mountings, and B210 x-member differs from it only about those mountings to car body which are wider. It's quite easy to transfer those L-series mountings to B210 x-member but it even easier to use 180B x-member. Engine mounts are also pair to x-member mounts, Stanza and 180B mounts are different and in most cases can't be cross used.

There's tens of different lower control arms to Datsuns, and with L-series in 120Y it's good idea to use wider control arms to get some negative camber to compensate understeering coming from heavier engine. I used those 180B arms which results about 1,5 degree negative camber instead of original 1 degree positive, and as I also increased caster as much as there's space in towers and that 120Y with heavy L-series becomes almost neutral, which is great as in standard form 120Y understeers like a cow.

L-series engines have at least two kind of oilpans, and with 610/710 x-member you have to use rear type pan and with Stanza x-member front type pan. If you are planning to convert B210 to L-series it's highly recommened to get some spare car with L-series engine and rigid rear axle as almost everything can be moved to 120y.

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That's case with B310 120Y. Pal of mine did one, it can take all from that Stanza (160J model a10 here in Finland), even that H165 with fourlink bolts right in. You don't need anything but wrench to do that conversion. Oh just L18, L20B is too tall, even with short L-series there's need to cut hood's strengtening to get it fully closed.

I also have one factory new Stanza X-member, with B210 120Y X-member mounts come to outer edge( there's own holes for A-series & L-series X-member, that L-series come about 3" longer from firewall), in B310 & Stanza they are middle mounted, so they can't be swapped.

From '75 to '77 120Y model is B211, I'm actually not sure which type x-member it uses.

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I have done engine development to my 120Y from A12 through A15 to L18.

I used 610/710 crossmember, short L-series tranny from 160J which bolts in with(gearstick in right place after reversing stick F4W63, bented gearstick from 160J) tranny holder from B310 Sunny which needed little modification to holes, but was easy job to get all 4 bolts fit, and A10 160J propeller shaft which is perfect match to H165, only Centre Bearing support is something that I couldn't find where to get original, instead I modified 180B's to fit, 120Y's original bolt holes are much wider than 180B.

Something I tried to tell but didn't accomplish, there's two kind gearboxes to L-series engines, short and long ones, long ones need to centre tunnel modifications if used in 120Y, short boxes instead are perfect match without any modifications.

I used pretty wild L18 with 45 Dellor'tos, modified A87 head and about 340 degree cam with .65" valvelift, that produces about 180HP at 8500rpm and first time it gets traction it breaked wishbones so I replaced those with 160J wishbones, which are little too long and absolutely too rigid, and they still bent far too much under acceleration( those installation needed custom made king bolts). Have to do someday somekind shelby-rods. Also that H165 is too weak but I haven't found any good replacement yet.

Oh, I also take whole streering linkage and box from 180B, and also conmpele strut assembly from 180B( Actually I bolted everything under hood from 180B), it fits fine in with big coils, towers get tight only when increasing caster.

I also got brake booster from 810 180B as it sits directly in firewall letting more space to carburators, there's some lack of space with LHD machines.

I'll get some pictures ( that 120Y is nothing to be proud of except handling and power) when I get some digital camera to my hands.