Do what Dave suggests - I mean half the fun of hot rodding is tinkering isn't it? Buy what he suggested & learn how to time & tune your engine. Once you understand those processes you'll be better at diagnosing other issues as well. Its all about experience & you only get that by doing.

If you cant find the gas can I've got the can of Datsun polish if anyone wants that....$100 bucks all day long. Just read the label, its better then wax for foreign car finishes!!

Geez Dave, what gas station are you going to? I think your getting ripped off @ $20 / gal...

do what david suggests - play with the a/f screw & the idle speed & try to adjust it out.

try removing the battery ground off the oil pump bolt, clean that contact - re-tighten, the main ground contact from the wiring harness I think is at the horn mount bolt going into the frame rail up front on the right hand side, pull that & clean really well re-install then make sure batt posts & connectors are all nice & shiny, tighten up.

try that first & see if car starts/runs - if not then go to the fuse box. The box itself isn't grounded to the frame but has a main ground lead - thats the part about pulling the box & cleaning all the terminal connections.

If its a ground or connection problem all the above will likely solve it, especially if all your wiggling got it to run again.

You know Yoda once said "not try....dooo" - good luck!

try carb cleaner or WD 40 - less volatile, ether will drift into the carb. If idle smooths out when you spray it on the throttle shaft its likely got a bad bushing. Try wiggling the shaft while spraying & see if that affects the idle as well.

looks kind of like a choke pull off - is it mounted on the side of the carb or manifold, kinda hard to tell. Could be the EGR as well.

You wont hurt anything by trying to hook it up, it may not work though. if its only a vacuum line try that - does it have a wire running to it as well?

you can spray anything over almost any type of existing paint if you apply a seal coat first. A 2K epoxy is probably the best to seal the vehicle with then you can put whatever you want on top of it.

read up on spraying a sealer coat, usually w/epoxy its a slightly thinned version of full strength epoxy 10 - 15% acetone reduced, with that applied you can then walk away for quite awhile & not worry about surface rust occurring which I'd think in your area could be a real problem. you can do filler work on top of the sealer as well. regardless of what you do - read a LOT before doing anything, you'll be happier with your result if you do.

the clear is a polyurethane - see tech sheet - probably fairly decent stuff.

http://www.de-beer.com/TDS/en/TDS8-204_EC.pdf

here's my original fuse box that had a melt down problem - I was able to save it by taking it out of the car & sanding with emery paper all the contact points back to bright shiny brass. Once cleaned up it worked perfectly. When I first put it in & powered up the box I was watching it & immediately notice a massive heat build up cuz I had my hand on it. if this occurred on yours it likely burnt thru a wire so you'll need to investigate.


you can see how the plastic around where the lug mounts into started to melt, it loosened the fit into the box but it all occurred due to oxidation on the contact points - clean both the fuse contacts & the wire connections on the back of the box

follow application instructions (tech sheets)for whatever type & brand of paint your planning on using. Forget advice from people who haven't a clue & suggest off the wall idea's that you dont understand.

If you use lacquer it can be buffed all by itself to a shine I believe. Some pretty decent painting advice & discussion here - read a lot.

http://www.autobody101.com/forums/