Its on an early A dist. from a motor Im trying to "bench start", I don't have a control module unless its self contained like Pertronix. Its a disc style running thru 2 pickups, 3 wires - black, gray, white. Hall effect type maybe??

If I cant use this can a late A model matchbox dist. be swapped in? if so, what's to do about the mount plate, doesn't align with early A block.

Hey - how does one load pic's from an iphone in a post?

thanks!

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As it says a set of the mount brackets for an A series motor, anyone is the Seattle / NW area have any thay'd part with?


Thanks,
Evan

Hey David,

so these bolts are rather confusing.

I scrounged a set from another A12 I have , I'd left them screwed into the crank - although one is bent, not sure how that happened...

Here's what I've figured out -

Bolts marked 62 are a M10 - 1.25 pitch , "fine"

Non stamped bolts that came from both the A12's are NOT M10 - 1.00 "extra fine" pitch- I thought they were correct but buying some temp bolts of that size I proved they dont fit into the crank.

the designation you showed below of 3/8 x 24 UNF (Unified Fine Thread) I'm not sure if that type of bolt is a nominal diameter of a M10 but maybe. A trip to Tacoma screw tomorrow hopefully will answer that.

I know that Datsun uses a BPT (British Pipe Thread) on the oil pump holes for fitting a pressure gauge to it so it doesnt surprise me
that they have other screwy standards mixed into the cars.

Its pretty annoying when you cant find a bolt though...waah :)

Maybe the 62 bolts fit the A14's & 15's, I believe that's whats on the A15 in the car but cant tell at this point. but they certainly do NOT fit the A12 cranks I have.

More weird Datsun info for the Wiki!

Hi all, haven't been on here for awhile, anyone know (DD maybe) if I can still buy crank bolts for A series motor from Nissan, part number would be great too!

thanks,
evan

Ive been trying ot take the striking guide off the trans with no luck. Removed the plug w/plunger in it, the bolt that holds it in. I can pull it back to a point but then seems to not come any further.

Whose taken one of these apart successfully??

is that seal only to keep oil from leaking from the end of the striking guide?

I have another 60A trans I started taking apart the striking guide (cant seem to get it off the striking rod...) but it looks like maybe the trans is supposed to lube the nylon shift lever bushing by allowing trans oil to get in there. I cant find any info on whether this is true or not...

Both trans seem to allow fluid into the guide and I see no other seal in the diagrams...

I have a leak coming from the transmission into the "Striking guide" assembly, its the cast steel shift selector piece that the shift control lever goes into.

It has oil pooling in the hole that the nylon bottom of the shift lever fits into, there are 2 seals, an O ring on the "guide" shaft thats between the guide & trans housing then the book says theres one in the end of the striking guide under a steel plug. Im sure I never replaced that one, does that one keep the fluid from the trans separate from the guide?

Anyone ever take one of these ends completely apart?

thanks

well sometimes the obvious isn't too obvious. Apparently all 3 of the clutch Mc's I had were all bad. One was NOS that id saved as a just in case, remember buying it off ebay few years aback, one was a new B210 MC that I kept after ordering wrong.

New MC from Oreillys for a B210 bought yesterday, swapped the pushrod, bled as david suggests and success.

way too easy to get fooled into thinking your parts should be fine....

Thanks David!

if I recall correctly 120 strut cartridges are longer than 110 struts. Are they going into stock 110 assemblies?

that doesn't have anything to do with too much paint and not slipping in the tube obviously...

hopefully someone here has a solution, before the cam replacement I had an issues w/not being able to get into gear after sitting for a length of time, week, month, etc... the system would start working again intermittently after pumping the clutch pedal a bunch then it'd work for awhile.

I assumed I had a bad slave piston sticking. So after redoing the cam Im onto the clutch. Replaced slave w/new one and cannot get it to bleed out. Then pulled MC and replaced it with an new extra 110 unit I had, bench bled, no air, installed and still cannot get it to bleed out. Pulled new slave, inspected both new & old, blew w/compressed air - both pistons move well, replaced MC again w/another new MC I had for 210 (swapped pushrod from 110 MC for correct stroke) still no bueno!

I've got a vacuum system but it just keeps pulling bubbles, I believe the hose at the nipple on slave is leaking a tiny bit.

I had the helper method of pumping the pedal a million times but still no good. I perplexed as this is such a simple system, if there was a pinhole in the lines there'd be a leak, most MC's I ever seen fail leak and bypass simultaneously and its unlikely all 3 MC's would be fails.

I have the clutch fork tied back to leave slack for the adjuster rod on the slave but pumping the pedal never moves the slave piston.

Im annoyed and baffled - any thoughts or solutions?