I debated this when installing my A15, instead of messing around with different mounting placement, drilling more holes into my core support, plus the cost of the other radiator, etc..... I took the stock rad to a rad shop & had him recore it with a 3 tube core, install a bung for a fan sensor, Installed a Spall fan on the backside of rad & it works awesome, no heating issues at all. Easy & clean.

http://alltransmission.com/index.php/product-catalouge

if you cant find parts on that side of the pond try these guys, I got a complete rebuild kit for my 60A 5 spd as well as a shifter fork, good luck

I dont know I'd have to be pretty convinced they were a decent welder to feel good about only being charged $100 to weld in a tunnel. Not that I'd be thrilled to pay more but a pro welding shop should charge around $75 - $90 & hour & there's no way you can do that complete in an hour. NOw $800 is a different story, I'd say between $225 & $350 is probably about right for pro job. That's a lot of spot or stitch welding to do.

I was looking at the amount of valve lift, on the big cam it's almost a 1/2" of lift vs. .330, but your right the first one seems milder than a stock cam, what could that possibly of been for or from?

here are cam profiles for a pair of cams I have. I had Delta cam run these as I've bought a few things from them recently.

the cams - right one is higher performance, left I believe is stock...



profile for HP cam on right..



stock cam I think...



would anyone know if the one on the right is a Nissan Comp version or just a reground & if the other one is a stock profine I have 2 extra of those then.
Thanks, Evan

do as dave says & reconnect the stock PCV system. I have a cannon & weber DCOE on my A15 & the catch can sucked (want to buy it, really shiny & pretty sittin on my shelf...). Not sure what manifold you have but figure out a way to reconnect the return line from the PCV off the breather pipe to the manifole. My cannon had a plug on it I used to port it into that, your dual mani should have something similar.

The catch can just made a mess in the long run & its beter to vent back to the motor so the vapor can be buent again anyways.

a compression test will tell you a lot but if you've got a lobe / lifter problem you don't want to keep cranking it over thus adding more metal to the motor & oiling system. If you pull the valve cover & all your rockers are tight or within the 10 to 14 thou range then the cams probably OK, THEN run compression.

not a whole lot to go on here but it could be a cam lobe. when they go they go quick & start running crappy & ticking. Check the oil for metal particles, pull the valve cover & see if you've got a sloppy rocker. Now the infamous line - ask me how i know.....

hey ernie, dont know the answer to the headgasket question but thought I'd see if you still had a cam for an A15 laying around. I'd like to send a cam & lifters off to Delta & have them done before I have to yank my motor apart.

Hows the project coming along, I followed it a bit on the build thread.

yeah, that's exactly it. I think it was wiped when I started playing with the adjustment the first go round.

My plan is to just pull the pan, front cover, the cam & lifters and loosed the rocker shaft to pull the pushrods, I dont want to pull the crank, pistons, bearings, head, etc... dont really see a need for it, anyone see any problems with this approach? The machinist said it was best to get it out now as it hasn't done any damage yet, I took the oil filter to him after cutting it open & no shiny copper or bearing material in the oil or filter.

Anyone done it this way?