oh did i mention the cost and scarcity of parts for the j series??

dont even get me started!!

ben

the j 15 is one big hunk of a motor
it has iron head and looks at least twice as heavy as the a series
i have one in a fairlady 1500 and it aint inspiring
the a series is a far better motor in my opinion as it at least has decent valve stem seals and a head made of a 20th century metal
ports on the j series arent too bad but not good enough to justify the weight


ben

sorry champion thats what i was getting at but i guess i didnt make the point too well

i worked it out for that setup, horizontal and 1.5 inches either way

ben

doing a spot of trigonometry i have decided the following

For a suspension travel of 3 inches and a horizontal Panhard rod of 30 inches (centre to centre) there will be a maximum lateral misalignment of 0.9 mm.

If you need 5 inches of travel then it grows to a massive 2.65mm so unless your tryes do not distort at all then i doubt the shift of the diff will be noticable.

If there is anyone who thinks that a Watts link is worth its weight (literally) then im all ears as i do not know if the amounts spoke of above are significant but am not a seasoned racer.

I think like most things it is how its done not what you do, if you have a 15 degree angle on the Panhard then it will be bad but if it is horizontal at ride height then its not that bad. Also if you want 10 inches of suspension travel then maybe go the watts but they are heavier and require more bracing.

Once again just my thoughts and im open to comment especially from those who have tried and had problems as i am going down the Panhard road and believe 3 inches of travel is enough.

Ben

sorry dude im in oz ay

nice b10 by the way

ben

pretty sure most oil pressure switches are in the 15-20 psi range for switch on and as said here they switch to earth so basically grab the end of the plug where it goes to the switch and touch it on the block with the igniton on and if it dont light up then it is most likely the bulb

ben

if you get an adapter to use both then make sure it is a short one and the switch is screwed closest to the block, the number of snapped ones from vibration is amazing

ben

damn u dattoman u beat me to it!!
its all good

ben

they arent too hard to do really
all you need is a shallow offset disc so then u are able to make a flat plate that can bolt through the drum backing plate bolts

i have seen several laser type setups but the last one got the offset correct by using 200B hubs i think

i personally have put silvia setup on one but that was a heavy conversion and complicated as the disc offset was large.

currently i am finishing up a wilwood race type setup which worked out really well apart from the wheel to caliper clearance

all the pics are in the yahoo group and being a 1000 guy u should join cos its tumbleweed over there

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/datsunb10/

all the pics of what i have done are in the bennys thou folder

there is also a nice conversion that dattoman is selling and it is on his website

http://members.iinet.net.au/~dattoman_1000/index.htm

its all there too and he should join the yahoo group and more importantly my msn as i bet i can help him out

u are of course welcome to hassle me on msn too

blue510fj@hotmail.com is the email to find me on for msn

you can message me here too if you would like

ben

i have been reading some heavy stuff that i found at the library at uni, two books by Milliken
i think "automotive chassis design"
it is a collection of notes from a guy called Maurice Olley who started work in the 1900s in britain then went to the usa, its heavy reading but useful for modelling

the more useful one is "race car vehicle dynamics" by milliken and it is pretty much what the title suggests and that is where the quotes come from

its long (very long) winded but has a few great chapters on linkages and design ideals

ben