jozz

call kevin rowley he has several fixes for the 1200

he would remember your car too

msg me for his number as i dont know about posting numbers on forums

ben

720 kg
400 front 320 rear

kb10, a14, twin SUs, 2 in system, et pulsar wheels, 12 plate battery, race seats and harnesses,3/4 tank of fuel.

i thought that was overweight but i thought that they were in the low 600s to begin with

see what happens with the various conversions going on now.

hoping for under 700, reckon i took 5 kg off the crank!!! well maybe 1

ben

about the steering boxes, does anyone know for srue if they are a quicker ratio. i have heard that they are too but never investigated.
i heard that they were a conversion for the 510 (1600) and that they were quicker then them but not sure for the 1200 or 1000??

does anyone know for sure??

thanks

ben

hmmm
Formula one, Champ cars, all other open wheelers, Sports sedans, GTP and GTO (Le mans cars)!! what do they all have in common?

Double wishbone suspension!!!

It is a very nice way to locate wheels. without going all technical, Macpherson strut is also very good but mostly done for cost reasons rather then performance. Less parts to make means less cost.

To get technical "instead of an upper control arm there is a strut" this can be thought of as "an infinately long upper control arm. This long upper arm yields a camber curve that loses rather then gains negative camber in bump. This is one of the major compromises of the strut type suspension, especially for performance applications"

Finally found a text book that has useful stuff in it!!!
It goes on from there but in short it is a cost thing not a performance thing.

The only dodgy thing about the 1000 is the leaf and the design height. (leaves suffer from non linearities due to internal friction between leaves)

having said that the corvettes use transverse leaves too although they are plastic i believe!!


go the b10!!!!!


ben

"Adjustable points go up in 500rpm a opposed to autronics 100rpm"


Autronic have user selectable load and rev points so they have no set gap

eg u can have 200,400,800,1200,2000,3000,3200,3350,5000 etc
(incidentally this was a feature that the later generations of Motec copied off Autronic)

gap is whatever u want and is most useful for fuel consumption and smooth cruising at your common speeds (60 and 100kmh)

autronic is a good choice over LT 10 as the price is not that different and they are a better ecu for overall drivability and consumption (in my opinion). they are basically a Motec without the price tag and all the options.

the way i see it
full on budget = Microtech
sensible road car, drag or race car with harder to decipher logging = Autronic
full suspension logging and user friendly systems for those who are "brand name oriented" = Motec

after sales will depend on who u buy it off and how much u pay, if you beat them down on price then dont expect the help.

any Autronic questions then let me know, i may be able to help

ben

the obvious one, why not build a strong ca16det?? it will require a little more boost then a 18 but who cares it will run 10's anyway!!

ca20det is a good thing to do too! but not a the expense of 20 years in jail!!

ben

im watching but it seems to be some FULLY SIIIK drift action

are u on after this?

ben

okay you crazy people
i have posted a lot of new pics in the yahoo group and even managed to resize them and caption them

ill be a computer nerd yet

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/datsunb10/

ben

ok all good
you will need to find out what the systems was off
there can be several things different
1) injector resistance and current draw (low or high)
2) the type of ignition pickup optical or hall effect
3) the number of outputs for coils (waste spark possible)

find out what the ecu is off first
then i would try to get all the bits of another car as you say but i would be more inclined to get ET pulsar bits rather then camira
the dizzy will go straight into a series wont it? and the microtech will read the optical pickup directly, this can trigger the stock coil singly or twin or even four depending on how many ignition outputs the ecu has (either two or four)
the tps is easy as just about any japanese (or maybe german (bosch) sensor will do but make sure that it has the low to high resistance rather then the switch type (although both will work) i would suggest for ease get a silvia or rb one or one off any mazda after about 86
the rest is pretty much standard, get a bosch temp sender off anything (should be obvious as they have a plug that looks like an injector on it) and i would have a go at using ET injectors as they should be about the right size and are low impedance
hmm i would use a set of coils off the hyundai range as they are a nice compact twin output twin coil pack for about 100 dollars new, you could try somethign second hand though.
you will need to send the ecu back to microtech for setup but you should get all your hardware first so you can tell them what to change and it will cost you up to 400 dollars (thats where they make their money)
god what else
if you have a big cam you may not be able to run the map sensor effectively but at any rate you should have a pickup to each runner to minimise the pulsing. tps sensor only can work well thoguh so dont discount it yet.
hmmmm what else

anyway give me a message or chat to me on msn if you want any more ideas
i could tune the thing if it is registered about christmas time as ill be back in newey then

also if you want some injectors etc then let me know


ben

30 litres used to get me 300 miles
a 14 on sus in a 1000 coupe

i miss it

the pulsar gets 420km to 30 litres but is lame

ben