Why not come out on a track day and give it a squirt.
You may like it better than rallying and your car will certainly last longer

Go Dattodude! happy 1000th!

I would suggest starting with a 135 mains, 160 airs. 40 pumps for starters.
Check your float levels first.

If its a downdraught, it will have the model number stamped on the flange that bolts to the manifold.

Bloody long way to come from Melbourne

I measured the shaft diameter toady and they are the same diameter but I havent pulled one down to look at the drillings.
Are you still having trouble with no oil to the top end?

Steve used the A14 block and A15 crank to cut down piston heights/weights.

"A14 Nissan engine with A15 crank bored to 78 mm (1568cc) Forged Pistons,
Nitrated crank, Race prepped rods ARP Rod bolts, Full engine balance, Nismo lifters, Nismo high volume oil pump, 82 Degree cam, High ported head with Nismo valve springs and stainless steel valves, Steel light weight flywheel with Nismo clutch p/plate and solid centre button clutch, hand made interference sand bent headers, Wolf3D Engine management system with twin DCOE 45mm throttle bodies and HEI Ignition. Produces 165HP @ 7500 rpm and 118 Ft lbs at 5800 RPM " These were Steve's specs for his engine.

Piston speed gets you at high RPM with the A15 crank. I have sonic tested 2 blocks ($120 each test) to see how far the A14 will go. 79mm is it so far, unless some magic block turns up

40 mm are custom made. in my engine.

Spot on Harry, That sums the A14 up nicely.
The fact that it ends up square bore and stroke is the same as an L20B as well with the rod stroke advantage.

After I finish the A14 for B120Dat I am building up a special A14 based engine that I think will probably use the A13 race head and the 79mm forged slugs. Only prob is I will have to do a very special set of rods to handle the engine speed I want.

The oil feed line to the rockers from the centre cam bearing or upper block surface may be blocked by your head gasket or may not be drilled in the head if you have changed heads. Did you put the thin head bolt in the centre oil feed hole?

I think would think the only thing to do would be drop the rocker arms of, crank up oil pressure and check for flow to the top of the head?. If not then take the head off and check for flow to the top of the block.

There are two different oil feed systems to the rockers. One through a restrictive drilling in the block connected to the main oil gallery, or two from the centre cam bearing around a thinner head bolt up to a diversion hole in the head that directs the oil to the rocker shaft.

Good luck

There are two different problems here.

The most common types of rings commonly used for rebuilds are chrome barrel faced and cast iron plain face. Both require different run in techniques.
Cast rings seat very quickly and can be "given death" after a very short time if correct ring gaps are used.

If you are using chrome barrel faced rings these have a smaller face area in contact with the bore but are harder to bed in. Giving these "death" after a short while will cause the ring to burn on the face, seize, loose tension or break.

Oil has a big part is break in as mentioned. Lighter oils allow more face contact before shear occurs meaning break in of the face occurs earlier.

Ring end gap is very important as well. In a performance engine where minimising blow by (wasted horsepower, dirtier oil) tighter ring gaps are used and a slower break in used to prevent thermal stress on the ring until fully seated in the bore.

I agree about running at same revs and lightly loaded for too long.

"Total Seal" manufacturers of Gapless race rings recommend the break in process should be :-

"Do not allow the engine to idle for long periods, mildy load the engine as soon as you can. Highway driving is a good way to seat the rings quickly. Do not use synthetc oils during break in. After 2000 - 3000 miles the rings should be sufficiently seated so regular oil can be used"