I would like to take a look. Apparently the pushrod location holes are different and they have more stifening ribs internally???????

I would like to take a look. Apparently the pushrod location holes are different and they have more stiffening ribs internally???????

Have any listers checked the differences between the three + variations in the A14 blocks??? Has anyone written down the differences?

I was told today that the N10 had an A14 and this block is very different to the sunny 310 A14 etc.
I am looking at doing up an A14 or A15 (Big Block for the sunny sports sedan (not the sunny L20B street car) as a test engine.

Can anyone shed some light on this.

Crickey!!!
The amount of run in depends on the type of rings used, the grade and type of oil used and the bore finish.

If you want to get a quality ring seal you have to wear the rings in to the honed surface in the bore to get maximum sealing and ring life.

If you use "barrel faced" chrome top rings, and a moly double rail style second, these need a very careful break in for the first 2 hours operation as with the reduced cylinder wall contact surface you get increased pressure per unit area of ring in contact with the bore. The smaller contact patch reduces drag/friction in the engine and helps get a better cylinder seal.

If you just give it heaps first off, the chances are the ring will over heat. If the ring gaps are not sufficient, the rings will seize in the bore. If the gaps are large enough, the rings will lose tension and cost you power and give blow by.

Normally I use a maximum of 20% throttle and Penrite HPR30 when cruising for the first hour, changing up and down as necessary.

Every 3 - 5 minutes give it full throttle for 5-10 seconds then allow about 2 minutes to cool down at very light throttle. Cruise for another 3 - 5 minutes before repeating.

The frquency of full throttle operation is gradualy increased over the next 3-4 hours operation and by that time the engine is fully bedded in with perfect ring seating on bore and ring lands.

They can but scrub radius on the tyre is a problem without the R31 offset ball joints.

I missed that one! But that the sort of thing Ive been after.

I have had my spy's on the wreckers hotline in NZ and also looking throught the trade and exchange to find one of these little suckers for about 4 years now. The are rarer than tassie tigers it seems!
Its eather a 1200SSS or a 140Z if I can find one!

Still searching,
Feral

Alloy carrier H190's were used in roadsters, J1500's, 520's, 620's, 411 bluebird SSS's, works rally car PA10's and the mighty FJ24 240 RS. I have probably missed a few as well.

At least only some of the faster ones do

Datnet or OZdat are better sources of L series info.

I'll see if I can do it. At least I can run my slicks there!