Maybe you are thinking of SR20DET'S. There is no black top CA18DET to the best of my knowledge.

In SR's it is the difference between model S13 & S14. There are differences in ports only and VVT on late black tops.

The largest chokes a 45DCOE will take are 42mm (without machining out the body of the carb) and then there is no choke at all.

The works L20B 2000cc engines only just managed 200 hp with 156 ft/lbs torque with all their resources. There is nothing significantly better we can do to the engine today than then.

The basic works rally and race engine specs were 86 x 86mm bore/stroke with Twin 48 webers and 43 mm chokes. They ran both FIA or normal heads with 44mm inlets and 36mm exhaust valves. The valves were 214N stainless that were tuliped and swirl polished with stellite tips then nitrided.

The engines ran cassete style air filters, with an HM53C interference type exhausts with lengthened secondaries.

Most were 10.8:1 on 100 octane avgas or 10.5 on super.

The cam was a wade 479C (76 degree) 304 degree advertised duration.

The cranks had screw in plugs fitted were ground 0.010" on mains and big ends then nitrided and straightened. The rods were the rods were aligned fitted with chev bolts then closed and honed and shot peened.

The whole bottom end including pulleys and clutch pressure plate flywheel were individually zero balanced , assembled the the assembly zero balanced.

They used a Z18T (280ZXT) oil pump.
The sump was baffled and fitted with windage tray.

In 1983 a clubman ran an E15 with webers and made 158 hp and 103 ft lbs torque. This was a basic engine just tuned well.

They can be made to go very well in NA form.

I just posted a dyno sheet from 1976 for rob souters engine in the photo album.
This car ended up with a 13B rotary I believe

I think I know where the car ended up but will check with the person who last had it.

A14force,
I get steel shaft turned down to the same dimension as the drill hole, cut the roll pins to length chamferer theends and tap them in to the holes with loctite (601) shaft fit.

As this has been a recurring problem I would have a good look at the crank thread condition. If all appears normal then dowel the crank and take the torsional load of the bolts. This is what kills the A series flywheels more than anything.
The bolts have a small PCD so this makes the problem worse. The last A12 hottie I just finished building had the crank triple dowelled so the dowel weights were evenly spaced for balancing.

By all means use 601 (shaft fit) Loctite and the primer T (3 Bond etc). Dowels are most important.

Its hard to quantify but i felt better on the DO1J when on the edge as they gave me more feedback through the stiffer side walls and hence steering. I find it hard to justify their price over the RA1's though.

Both are good in their own ways. I wouldnt pick one over the other. I would like to try the 888's

I am doing up a VG30 at the moment and am interested in the oil problem comments and other negatives on this engine.
I find them very reliable and very responsive to performnce mods.
Mine in the parts barge has done 400,000 km's on the original bottom end and just a clean up on the heads.

They rev like here is no tommorow if you keep them in good nick.

Quote:

This is my feelings on the RA1's versus DO1J.
I like the RA1's and ffeel very confident of their ability to give a constatnt grip without going "off" noticeabely.

I have never driven on R888's, but I bet a lot of people would be very attracted to the lucky number of the tyres.