Well i do not own a degree wheel or DTI (whats that stand for?) or a timing light etc...

Well surley if set at TDC on no.1 and then putting the cam sprocket and adjusting that to the match mark on the crank sprocket would work the same no?
Wat im trying to get across is that the two dots on the two different sprockets WOULD line up if set at TDC on no.1 and then just adjust the cam to suit the other dot...But i have had no experience with this so please, someone show me some guidence!!! I know that the cam size does not change, like the lobe is the same (turns the same) but the timing is much different...

Should i just ask the shoip who did all my bits or what?

Dave

yeah 1000 wagons are so old skool looking and crying out retro all over it! Drop a nice hotted up A14/A15 in there and it would be a screamer!

This is in quite great condition tho, pretty much a once in a long time find really....

Dave

If following the service manual this only talks about the exact same parts as what was in the engine before so this is where im stuck now...

So these are the specs for my new cam:

Lift: In = 267"
Ex = 260"
Duration: In = 316 deg
Ex = 309 deg

What the problem is is that now i am putting on my cam & crank sprockets and the timing chain and getting these inline and working together is the problem.
The manual says the camshaft dowel hole must be inline with the key groove on the crank sprocket when first installing the timing chain - and in theory if all correct when setting No.1 piston at TDC the match mark for the crank will align with the key groove & the match mark for the cam will align in the center of the other........(tell me if i explained that sh|t )

BUT! the problem is that with my new cam these markings do sweet bugger all as their quite different (i.e not working as one!!)

SO, the question i have is, is there a way i can easily calculate where my timing marks should be without getting someone else to do it or taking it to the dyno or something??? If more specs on the cam are needed i have the whole sheet right here....

Advice greatley appreciated!
Cheers
Dave (this is all a bit too much for me! )

bleh

Look at this..............Mint condition, looks in great nick.
If were over there i would DEFINATLEY buy it!

http://carpoint.ninemsn.com.au/Deskto ... bID=3328&Alias=carpointau

Dave

On the subject of cams what is the feedback people have heard of Waggot cams?? This is who did my cam and it seems quite nice and the shop recomended them to me aswell....

Dave

Pm sent...

mperdue, i was in the same boat as you but picked my course headed off and now im more than happy with the progress done on my little donk!!
I have recantley had my A15 reconditioned (professionally done, ie not me!) with extra work: cam & crank grind, lightened flywheel, extra swirl on the head, 20 thou overbore, surfaced, honed, acid dipped and the usual...
So far i have fitted lifters, cam all new bearings, crank and bearing caps (i havent had much time to do this!) & am in process of fitting rings and pistons... All this cost me about $1200 (this was $800 for just a standard rebuild but i had extra work done)....better than 1500 that other places quoteed me.
And i have fitted/dismantled ALL of this with a B310 serivice manual, plus this is my first real taste at cars as im a newbie and NOT proud !!!!
But my 2c's worth are a fully reco'd engine with some head work, internal work, crank and cam grinds, 1 or 2 carbies (injection or whatever) will still be a great little fast car depending on the application you want it for..
But the serivcee manual will be the best 10 - 30 dollars you have EVER spent, it goes into detail you can only imagine and has everything and more you will need on reconditioning your A14.
But if it a daily driver a full reco would most probably be under about $900 if getting it done (this would most probably be not assembled so you'd have to do it yourself) and more extra work MAY not be needed depending on how you want it to go, where its going everyday...

Jsut remember, dont rush into anything, think it thru THROUGHLY and dont go flying you money here and there, ring up for quotes from many different places and tell em to stick it if its over about 1300...........

This is my experience which is quite limited so ask around here, everyone is keen to help people like you and me who are new to the buisness!!! Thats what the forums for!!!

Cheers
Dave

Umm in my serivice manual it says 'before installing 1st and 5th bearing caps apply a small amount of sealant in corners' would this just be a small ammount of locktite or a similar gasket sealer?

Cheers
Dave

I had a priceless moment when this absolute wanker was showing off his Barina sedan but he was saying it was an N15 or just a standard nissan pulsar!!! He hanging out with an ex mate of mine and he goes check out this guys pulsar its full sick (thats why i do not associate with him) and im like errr no thats a barina sedan dont bullsh|t me!!
And the guys like 'ohh.....errr.....wel.... yeah but its got the pulsar features and logos!!!! WHAT A TOSSER!!!

Cheers
Dave