I find that Nofuckentime goes hand-in-hand with wifepullsthehandbrakeoneverytimeIlooklikegettingsomeworkdoneonthedatto syndrome.

The blue ute will FINALLY be making an appearance.....

Have a game of touch on 1st so I'll be running late too.

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They're still for sale then........

You have a PM.

It could just be that the gear drive has bound onto the crank gear drive.

I'd try rotating the crankshaft back & forwards by hand while trying to pull it out.

If that doesn't work, I reckon you'll need a slide hammer.
Find a piece of booker rod with a thread that's compatible to the top of your distributor drive.
Drill a hole in a healthy sized piece of barstock.
Screw one end into the dizzy & a lock nut on the end of the rod.... And start sliding.

That's about all I can come up with without seeing it 1st hand.... Not overly familliar with the Ford big block.

So what part on the shock bottoms out?
I'm guessing the top of the shock insert tube....

Now you're talking........

Should I be looking for any particular model of Gemini (TC, TD, TE etc.), or are they all the same?



P.S: Guess I'm lucky SOMEONE (along with everyone's favourite dog) changed my mind on cutting springs. lol

Hey picko,

For mine I got 2 pieces of 75 x 50mm RHS & cut 160mm long, welded together & machined a 76 diameter hole through the centre of the join.
Then it's a matter of welding some end caps on (modification approval requirements), setting the pinion angle & welding to the axle housings.

I went for the 75 x 50mm to lower the rear.
A lot of blokes use 50 x 50mm then add lowering blocks later on.
160mm is a bit longer than what most people have done too.... This was an effort to reduce axle tramp.

Here's a photo of mine prior to welding.

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Surely only going 1" lower wouldn't cause the struts to run out of travel...... Would it?

Good point though regarding cutting the stut tube.

B210sleeper - I'm running a 180sx front disc conversion & the engine is a CA18.

Was planning entering some SE Qld sprint series events, along with the occasional track day.
Do you think that would justify using fully adjustable coilovers?

I don't understand how changing the ride height would affect the handling all that much.... On a 1200 ute anyway.

Preload was something we used to play around with a lot when I was into road bikes, but this was critical as the centre of gravity is a major consideration when setting up a bike.
I'm pretty inexperienced when it comes to car suspension though & don't know if the same rules apply.

O.k, so everything's in & running well, but with the CA in the font the thing handles like an upside-down turtle.

Time for a suspension upgrade.....
I'm trying to decide whether to go with welding threaded collars to my 120Y struts to allow fully adjustable coilovers or just to stick with some lowered springs.

I can't really see the point of fully adjustable if once you get the ride height you want, they get locked off & left alone.

Thinking some 1" lower 200lb (Kings or similar) springs & if the ride height needs adjusting, I can just grind & re-locate the standard 120Y spring retainer.

What do you guys reckon?

Also - Any advice on a good shock insert (front) & rear shock to use would be welcome.

Cheers,

Coops

Fairlanes are the go for the LSD centres.....

I've found them a bit hard to get in the falcons until I discovered nearly all the Fairlanes have them.

EA/EB equivalent Fairlanes...... UC or something they're called.