Absolutely no boost (or power) driving to work this morning.
I thought I must've blown a hose on the intercooler plumbing somewhere, but when I checked it was all in place.

I've noticed a bit of a buzz eminating from near the turbo over the past few weeks which I thought may have been the wastegate vibrating.

A change in the exhaust note too.... Louder, almost like there's a hole in the exhaust (which there definitely isn't).

I'm thinking that the turbo's shat itself.

Just can't understand it because I thought there'd be smoke if the turbo went.

I know I'm clutching at straws, but is it possible the wastegate's stuck open or something?

Or do what I did.......

Place the too small bump stops on top of the axle housing.
Set the u-bolts up loose.
And..... Torque those little ba$tards down .

And guess what.... The H165 bump stops now fit the R31 axle.

It's like an old fitter I used to work with always used to say...... "A good tradesman knows when to be rough"

Quote:

Price for coilover kit...........?

Here's a pic of my setup.....

Yep, you need all the bits from a R31 setup.

Had a local trailer spare parts mob make up the cables to my requirements, then it was just a matter of machining a piece of 1" x 1" angle iron to suit the cable ends.

Hope this helps.

PM sent (coilover kit)

Pure porn......

I was all keyed up to go on my "old one was better" rant.... Until I read the spec's.

God I want one.... Who want's to go halves in a bank robbery?

Has anyone airconed a CA 1200......?

I was thinking along the lines of pinching a compressor & condenser from a Silvia / 180sx.
That way it'd have all the same mounting brackets / holes etc & would just require a head unit & an extra thermo-fan for the condenser.

Am I dreaming or what?

Mate, this subject has been done to death.
Try looking on the search bar on the LH side....

The general consensus seems to be that the best option is JT racing springs... Around $220.

There's varied opinions floating around on flipping leaves & using lowering blocks etc.

Not too sure on the 120Y option.......

I'm running a ute with standard springs & lowering blocks & that seems to work o.k.

Ta Nick.....

I'm planning to cut the Gemini springs to achieve the same ride height as I've got now.
They should be a bit firmer after I've cut them...
The idea is to get better cornering with the stiffer (cut) springs, while retaining good driveability thanks to the variable rate..... Good old GMH engineering .

Some new KYB shockies on the way too.

Also gonna spend some time with the trusty arc welder & some 3/16" strip to brace up the std 1200 swaybar.

Hopefully by the time I'll finally have it handling like a 1200 should .

O.k.... I've got myself some Gemini variable rate springs as suggested on another thread.

Looking to change into my 120Y struts next weekend.
I'm just trying to work out if I need to make up a spring compressor 1st or if the struts at max. travel will allow me to remove the 120y springs without copping a spring in the moosh.

Also wondering how well the Gemini springs will slot back in & if they'll need to be compressed 1st.

Harry. If you're listening.......