Get a B310. Voila! Axle tramp gone!

If it is indeed a Honda XR100, it is a four stroke. If it's a two stroke, it's a CR. Quick to tell the difference, if the exhaust looks to be the same diameter all the way to the muffler, it's a four stroke.

I've had half a dozen XR's and worked on a dozen more. Currently I have a XR650L. Street legal dirtbike.

Ange wrote:
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If I'm not mistaken, the 1200/B210/B310 hydraulic clutches don't need adjustment after the intial adjustment. Some of the B310's don't even have a threaded rod. If you adjust them correctly to start, when you need a further adjustment your clutch disk is done. Also, if you change your clutch fluid per manual spec when you change the brake fluid (once a year, right?), I doubt it will ever leak. As far as bleeding, gravity bleeding takes about 3 minutes. Hydraulic clutch is by far the way to go.

If you have a B310, you already have headlight relays. My '79 has them on the fender next to the battery. The washer bottle hooks on the sheetmetal cover. Just need to plug in a heavier relay and add heavier wires to the headlights. I suggest Bosch relays. Add a junction block for the positive battery cable too and it's a convenient place for the headlights to hook in, gets rid of the fusible link. Add a circuit breaker. The junction block is also a good place to hook in your CMC connector that you mount below the bumper so you can hook up jumper caples without popping the hood. A Ford starter solenoid is good for energizing the CMC so your jumper cable isn't live until you flip the switch on the dash. In my pickup, I use it for energizing the winch that fits in the trailer receiver, front, back and both sides and with a 2/0 extension, the trailer.

yeah, pictures of a round headlight B310. And I want chrome front and rear bumpers like those shown! Even though my rubber ended ones are in great condition, I want those Japanese ones. very sexy! Anyone willing to ship to the US? I have no idea how to even approach it.

The industrial engines I have seen were usually based on the 1171 cc A engine and had the different distributor location. Maybe there were others that were based on the A14/15 but I haven't seen any. I haven't been looking either though. Several things lead me to believe it was not industrial engine. The H75 head wouldn't seem to be on an industrial engine. According to the tech section at this site, the H75 was for single or dual carbs. It is an oval port head. I feel it would be unusual for a forklift to have such a head. I would expect to see a head more along the lines of a round port that would optimize low rpm operation. The exhaust manifold also does not have the egr hookup. The boss is there, just not drilled but the manifold does have the exhaust flapper. I think a flapper would be unusual on an industrial engine. The real story will be told when I degree the cam. I would expect an industrial engine to have a completely different cam profile. I'm also curious as to why the engine size is stamped on the block and not cast in. Like they had a bunch of blocks and built engines to order, putting the engine size on after they put the crank in? Whatever it is, it is in very good shape and will be the basis of a good buildup.

Ok, I pulled my wrecking yard engine apart last night. I bought it because it had several interesting features about it. It was in a 1979 wagon with a 5 spreed, I got the 5 speeds too. Not too bad for $120. The block did not have the normal A14 cast in it, it was stamped on a pad above where you'd find the A14 cast. It initially caught my eye because it has a silver foil sticker on the oil cap with Japanese writing on it. I believe it is a Japanese domestic engine that was brought here as one of those low mileage replacement motors. A Datsun mechanic friend of mine that serviced these cars in the 80's confirmed this when he first saw it. He said he'd seen alot of them. As I checked this engine out at the wrecking yard, I noticed it had no emission equipment on it except a pcv. In fact, there are no provisions for putting an egr, air pump or anything like that. The intake and exhaust manifolds are very "clean" without any of the extra passages, ports and fittings. It has the H75 head with oval ports and the center stud. When looking at the Datsun heads, the H72 came out in the US in the 1978 B210GX. In 1979 all the heads had some type of emission equipment. The #''s on the Datsun heads, (H72, H95, etc) increase as the later versions came out and superceded the earlier versions in production cars. From this I am concluding that the H75 head is later than the H72 and also being without emission equipment, is preferable to the H72 as I believe it would have had some design revisions. The tech section lists the H75 as being a single or dual carb head. If you have an H75, you might want to hold on to it. After I clean up the H75, I'll get the H72 off the shelf and cc them both, maybe take a few pictures.


Also, I was going to get my flywheel surfaced and I couldn't find the spec for the step in the flywheel. Factory spec is 0.005-0.008" step proud where the disk contacts the flyhweel. Most outfits just grind the flywheel flat. If you do grind it flat, the clutch is going to slip before long because you can't get enough clamping pressure.

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What you are describing is the fact that a longer rod causes the piston to dwell at tdc and bdc longer. This may or may not be desirable. To me, it is desirable. It causes the flame front to push on the piston longer meaning you can extract more power from a longer rod. It decreases the sideloading on the piston which means you have less friction and your pistons last longer. The drawback is that you move your torque peak up the rpm range. This may not be desirable in your particuliar street engine.

Having said that, there is one thing very good that happens as the rod ratio approaches 2:1. The engine becomes more octane tolerant and you'll find that you can run cheap gas and lose less than 2% power when you drop several grades of gasoline.

I edited some for clarity

And now the rest of have seen the essense of hotrodding. Sometimes it's more about, "Can it be done?", rather than cost, ease or leading edge performance. Sometimes, it about what you got and what you can do with it.

I think Dodgeman has the true hotrodder spirit. Too many people think hotrodding is about bolting a few mailorder billet parts on and going with it.

I appreciate the engine-uity put forth Dodgeman

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Check the pocket bearing between the input and mainshaft. In 4th gear, this bearing isn't turning as you're at 1:1 ratio. Probably the car was towed with the transmission in. This bearing won't get sufficient oil when towed and eventually fails.