Did you look at the #'s on it or turn the input/output shafts? I'm not saying you made a mistake, but for a 4 speed to shift into a 5th hole would take some pretty special circumstances. The tailshaft housing would have to be from a 5 speed, as a 4 speed is not drilled for movement of the reverse shift rail to go to 5th. The 5th hole for the shift rail would be a non-wear item. If the tailshaft housing is from a 5 speed, the transmission probably is a 5 speed. The best explanation I have is that the transmission is a 5 speed but is missing 5th gear, although I don't think it would be as simple as just leaving 5th gear off the mainshaft as the coupler ring would cause problems and the baulk spring would push the chicklets out. Then you would have a nonshifting transmission. I think it would be worth a little investigation seeing how you guys have to pay so much for 5 speeds. Maybe you could get it for a 4 speed price?

Don't know about Oz, but here in the US the 63A came in the 1978 B210GX. I bought one out of the wreckers for $100 about 20 years ago. Never knew what I had until a Datsun mechanic friend of mine saw it. The 63A will have a sand cast bellhousing, (higher manufacturing cost) and a diecast tailshaft housing. As you probably found out, The input and output shafts are bigger and have more splines.

I would stay away from a Ford 9 inch. Strong, yes, but it will also cost you 3% more power to turn than say, another unnamed rearend that uses 12 bolts to hold the ring gear on. The 9 inch meshes the pinion low on the ring gear, bad for friction.

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If you set your fan up with a thermostat, the fan won't run while you're on the freeway because the air being forced throught the grille will be plenty. Less drag on the accessory drive means better mpg, which means better efficiency, and that means more power. I doubt you will notice the extra power. Your fan will run chugging around town though so the increased mpg will be predominately on the freeway.

Tonight I'm watching TV (US) and a Toyota truck commercial comes on. There's a ute in the picture, maybe an 8"extended cab and square headlights. Any ideas what it might be?

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Don't connect the third wire to ground. That's your idiot light. If I'm correct, that wire has a +12 volts on it. It goes to the idiot light and gets hooked to a +12 volts there. When your alternator stops working, the third wire becomes the ground and the light lights.

If you connect that third wire (+12volts) to ground, you'll let smoke out somewhere.

Hope you read this in time.