I'll swap the brakelines and see wat happens, thanks.

Will keep you up to date on progress.
Thanks all

dattoman_1000
ATE Master Cylinder? Is it good or bad?
Ive removed the vacuum hose while the brakes were locked and it didn't do much so its safe to say its not the booster but wil check the clearance on next attempt.

PIGDOG
AFAIK the front brakes must be on the front point of the master cylinder or so i'm told
Quote: Funny story that. Wreckers claim its of a Nissan 1400 bakkie, the one brake repair shop says it looks like it caim of a ford sierra and the other brake place says it looks like a nissan sentra's booster and cylinder

Thanks

[edit:add]found this on the net, seems like I should be able to blow air through.

I've been busy with a disc brake upgrade om my ute and everything that could go wrong did, this simple converstion has become a absolute nightmare over the last couple of weeks. Without going into to much detail, here is my problem.

The discbrakes work great for about the first 10mins that im driving around but after that it slowly starts to build up pressure and starts braking all by its self. Ive narrowed it down to 2 things, 1 being the shaft on the booster is too long and consistantly applys pressure on the master cylinder or 2 my master cylinder is stuffed.

I think its the master cylinder cause when I blow on the hole for the rear brakes I can blow air through but when I try to blow air through the hole for the front brakes nothing. No air goes through.
Is it suppose to be like this or is this the root of my problem?
I asked the brake "experts" and got a reply "I don't know"

thanks.

LOL, I've done almost the same thing. rotated the sparkplug leads one point to the left or right(my memory sucks at this time of the morning) and got a new understanding why pre-ignition is also called ping. Made the same sound as a submarine hehe. Luckely no engines were damgaged in the making of the sound.

Will there be any catastrophic effects if your dwell angle is 58 degrees? or am I just a tad paranoid?

That octane boosters are Bull$hit. *phew* I didn't want to say it out loud but i figured as much

I've checked my TDC marker and it was difinitly accurate or very close to accurate. I actually used the same method as you Dodgeman, only I thought I was really clever at the time when I thought of it

I think my distributors advance spring mightof stretched a bit causing it to advance to much. If its not that i'm going to throw in some warmer sparkplugs and see if that doesn't help aswell.

TA

LOL, Ronald, maybe its something like variable valve timing but only with compression . I'll fiddle some more with the timing tonight. It'll be nice not to have to pull the cylinder head.

Hey 1200GXman. I've checked the distributor and its in the right place. Unfortunetely the previous owner is M.I.A. but I do know the head has been skimmed atleast twice ( was rebuilt before I bought it and I blew the topgasket ).

dattodevil: I'm running 95LRP, i've added some octane booster to the mix but that seemed to do very little if anything at all.

I've got this little knock/ping problem with my a14 datto motor. I only noticed i had a problem after i bought myself a timing light. After checking my timing I got quite a shock cause my timing was set to 5 degrees ATDC I though to myself well this explains allot and set it to 5 deg BTDC. Only to discover that if my timing is set to where it is suppose to be I experience some major knock under the slightest throttle.

So i set my timing to TDC in the hoped that it'll be drivable, and it is, up until the point where the engine heats up properly then the lovely sound of destruction returns

At this point I was pretty sure that it was carbon on the sparkplugs(cleaned them and no change) or in the combustion chamber but another factor came into play. I bought a pressure tester just to make sure that its not the compression that's to high. The results are scary, I got an average pressure of 1425kPa on each cylinder and its suppose to be 1245kPa .

So, if my compression is too high won't it knock when the engine is cold as well?
If I need to drop the compression using a copper gasket, how do i work out how thick it must be?

Does it ping when cold or only after it started to warm up a bit?

The reason why I'm asking is I've also got a A14 motor with serious knock/ping problems. Im at the point of pulling off my cylinder head and scraping of any form of carbon. *expect a post later on, on how to remove and replace cylinder head*

hhmm come to think of it I did tamper with the points before I checked/set my timming.

Tell me if this method is wrong cause i'm not sure if its the right way to do it. I take the dizzys cap off, rotate the engine till the points are at the highest point on the cam, adjust that distance to .50mm - .55mm (if my memory serves me correctly) with feelerblades and tighten points screw.