M8x1.25 probably about 20mm long

how badly do you want them? i have a spare set for my wagon....but dont really want to part with them as i know how hard they are to find when you need them

It isn't that hard to pull the front and rear covers off and bead blast them, then it will look like new and save you several hundreds of dollars

As another comparison, a fairly stock ca in a 1200 will give a new clubby a run for its money and that would be under 200rwhp. 300hp is probably going to be the limit of what you would want in a street driven 1200 as you would be struggling for traction a bit i'd think. Any more than that will just shorten your tyre life.

If you haven't done an engine conversion before then 2 weeks to have it all done and ready to do a 5 hour trip would probably be pushing it. there will be a lot of work to do that won't be obvious at the start of the conversion

So, any one that's seen the wagon, or the old sedan, would know that it runs a copious amount of camber. I've known for quite some time that this amount of camber did no good other than looking really aggressive.
it also ran a visually different amount of camber on one side to the other.
So on the weekend I decided id see what I could do to get the camber to a more street friendly angle. So armed with some flat/level ground, a square, a ruler and some basic trigonometry skills I set about making things right

I thought I was running around 1.5 degrees on one side and 2.5 on the other. Turns out I was running 3.3 and 2.8
First mission was to try to even the camber out, I adjusted the control arms in by around 10mm so they were both 10mm shorter than a standard stanza lca. Got to about 1.8 and 2.8, my goal was 1.5
Next step was moving the crossmember, I decided that the tiny bit of adjustment in the holes for bolting the crossmember to the chassis wasn't enough, ended up moving the holes somewhere between 5-10mm across and welding the rest of the hole up so it couldn't move back
That got me to around 2.3 degrees on each side, with my lcas on their shortest setting.
A bit more than I wanted but atleast got them within .15 degrees of each other. Got then down to 1.5 ish with the tops on about their middle setting, could get to half a degree with the camber tops all the way out
As I have the tops in diagonal it means I lost a bit of castor too which isn't that bad as its now a bit easier to steer

But it seems much nicer going around slow tight corners with the extra rubber on the ground
Now to send it off for a wheel alignment to see if my measurements were accurate and to get the castor evened out and toes set

Mines also under the dash

as long as its secure it shouldnt matter i wouldnt think, but thats up to the engineer to say really

310 sunny

sunny booster is also an option. any of the relatively small boosters will still give plenty of pedal feel, id say on my car you have better pedal feel with the booster than without. As without the booster the pedal was just rock solid all the time and you physically couldnt get the car to stop anywhere near as good as it should. mind you that was with r32 brakes all round adn a 15/16th master
but i feel the booster made the car stop far better and gave you more feel for how much pressure you were actually applying

i also had landcruiser front brakes and r31 rears with a 7/8th master with no booster and that pedal was almost to stiff for street driving

but thats just me, im yet to drive a car that isnt running a booster that i think stops nicely. i like to be able to pull the car up confidently using just the force from my little toe on the pedal

13/16th master that will be a straight bolt in replacement will come from a datsun sunny, providing you already have a dual res master cylinder in the car currently. Easy enough to just go to a brake place and look through a master cylinder book. just look at the datsun ones from the 70s and 80s in the size you want. if they look the same as the ones you have now then there is a very good chance they will be a bolt in replacement