dattodude, it already has coil rear end, but its 3 link not 4/5 link as i didnt think i could fit top arms in. Then i looked at how yours was done and im now thinking i can actually get it to work

Mainly wanted to go coils for the adjustability and ease of spring rate change. The leaves were also doing some weird things in the wagon and didn't like them one bit

But i do also have a workshop at dads on a 10 acre block with neighbours that are never around and probably couldn't care less if i was grinding a 2am....which i have done several times on several different cars that have been built out there
And for the cost of getting someone else to do the job i would consider that i do have unlimited mig wire and gas. There is always something out at dads getting built so there is always a decent stock of welding and grinding supplies around, spare time is the only thing that is a little short on supply

No real mechanical updates so far, new fuel tank is all welded together, just need to do the mounts and it will be right to go in. It is looking much nicer than the tank thats in there now and i have far more confidence in it than the current tank

vinyl for the rear seats is finally all done now, just have to get some foam for them and then they should be right to assemble to fit back into the car

And thanks for chucking the pics up adrian, and i guess for spending several hours making the paint look like it should

"cough" turbo a series "cough"

i grounded mine to the engine mount point on the block, and then same on the opposite side to the chassis rail

i have a spare wagon if you cant find anything else. wouldnt mind keeping the windows in it as its being used to store stuff....but if you cant find anything else let me know. Pretty sure the seals are rather #OOPS# though

ignition module?
Grounding issue? causes probably 90% of electrical problems

if you can get a hold of a spare working ignition module and ecu id probable test both of them

Yeah mine ran fine for the year i had it in the car till the timing belt broke....coz i was too lazy to swap the new one i had in

Just run all the standard turbo, you only have to make up the one water line that normally goes into the block on the turbo side as the hole isnt drilled and tapped in the block. just make a new line that goes behind the head and put it into the heater line coming out of the block on the other side
Dont think the management would care too much that the comp is higher, it still has a knock sensor so should be able to figure out if stuff goes wrong. It would only be if you wanted to get the best out of it that you would need to get it tuned, which is the same for a DET anyway after doing a conversion and using lots of non standard parts


Im building another CA18de+t for the suzuki as the one in my sedan was heaps better than the low comp CA that i have in the wagon now, had heaps more balls that a standard or similarly modified DET

Only real difference between the engines is the higher comp, better cams, couple of different water fittings and the DET has oil squirters, everything else is easily interchangable

200b cable

if its not accurate you can get corrector boxes to make it right

yeah i can fit my arm around the gearbox in my car. engine is mounted pretty low so gives even more room.
but they are the same size as a 180b or 200b tunnel. obviously a little less room in them than there is in a 180b or 200b as the engine is usually mounted further back in a 1200 than what a standard car would be.....but still lots of room

lol, so much crap in this thread

i also agree with andy, its easy to get an L20b into a 1200 without going anywhere near the bonnet, i had one in mine with the standard carby and filter on it and it still cleared the bonnet. But you are also right in saying that they are really more effort than they are worth compared to a CA coversion as the CA fits much better

datto13b.....yeah, i dont know where to start

if you look at the title it says CA18DE, not fully blown turbo CA that is going to have a million kilawasps
Remember that the brakes are dealing with weigh....not how fast the car is. is a new barina that weighs 900-1000kg can pull up quite well with tiny front discs and equally tiny rear drums then how is it logical to assume that a 1200 ute that weighs the same or less wont be pulled up by the same brakes
Sure having larger brakes is always good but it is a bit rich to say you need 4 wheel discs to pass engineers

and i ran 4 wheel discs on my 1200 for ages with no booster....it pulled up perfectly fine, Most engineers will like you to have a booster but if it pulls up fine and doesnt require ridiculous pedal effort then why add the extra weight of a brake booster....thats just more weight that your brakes need to deal with

And $10,000 for the conversion. again its a CA18DE, i did my first ca18det conversion for $1500 buying better than standard parts and getting everything seperately which no doubt ended up costing more. Even with a standard CA turbo the stock ute diff should be fine if you know how to drive. front brakes cant cost more than a couple of hundred $$$ if you actually know the right stuff to buy


Anyway, as to how much of a pain it would be depends on the engineer you use. you should do a bit of calling around to see who is around and what they think it will require. Some engineers are nice and are willing to give you basic info and have a chat. some are arseholes and wont give you the time of day without a deposit. They also vary largely on what they require you to do. so if you find yourself having to pay thousands of $$$ to hire a race track to perform some basic vehicle tests, you've probably gone with the wrong engineer

Thats just my experience, the engineer i used was great. He was happy to chat about my can with no commitment from me and then also talk about other cars and give general advice. Another engineer i talked to didnt manage to even get back to me with a simlpe yes or no on whether i could engineer the CA in my car or not, even after having actually talked to him for a little while about it

You wil also probably be required to have retractable seat belts and the collapsable steering column if your ute doesnt already have them

DD from what my engineer said mid way through last year they have just got a bit tighter on how the weight of the car is defined, so a 1200 is right on the line of being able to have a CA or not. Apparently the same with some toranas and stuff with small block chevs, they must also have been pretty close to the limit and it has caused a bit of a hassle with some conversions

i was meaning using the nissan v8 to show the size of a quad cam v8.....the nissan engine would make a 1uz look small also

and im pretty sure once you add the manifolds to the LS they end up being nearly as wide as a 1uz, and they are also almost the same height and length. They just look smaller, especially when the one in the pic has no accesories